The dark and wild Kali Tiger Reserve

With a full day to spare at Dandeli, a ride to Castle Rock sounded exciting. Unfortunately, crossing the border to visit Dudhsagar is arduous due to restrictions (unavoidable RTPCR test).  Castle Rock is a small village surrounded by dense forests bordering Goa. These woodlands fall under Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary, also called Dandeli-Anshi Tiger Reserve. This region is famed for bird-life besides Wildlife. It was a delight to stroll around the empty Castle Rock Railway Station. A small shop nearby serves piping hot local cuisine.

 

 

It was thrilling to traverse through narrow and winding roads to reach Ramnagar, a chief town on the Panjim-Belagavi highway. It serves as a good pit stop to fuel up for the ride ahead, through the forest with scant sunlight. A deviation takes you towards the famous Old Magazine House - a hotspot for feathered friends. The road in the ghat section is under construction at many places. The ride is at snail speed though the scenery compensates for the bad roads. It was gratifying to ride until the border on the Karnataka side, as we were on the other side during our Goa ride.

 

 

Spread over a vast area of 1300 square kilometres, Anshi National Park – recently renamed as Kali Tiger Reserve (KTR), was on top of the bucket list of riding routes. The SH34, Ramnagar-Karwar road connects Karwar to Dandeli via Joida. This is the usual route taken, but a detour from Sangave the interior roads with twists and turns take you to Ulavi via Syntheri Rocks. A little ahead of Ulavi, this road connects to SH146 and finally at Anshi joins SH34. The jungle of KTR has a very distinct vibe compared to the adjoining national parks of Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary and Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary in Goa. Some routes are through dense forest with narrow meandering roads, with a stream on one side. Several minor roads lead to interior villages, with many options to explore the area.

 

 

The most popular attractions are Syntheri rocks and the pilgrimage site of Ulavi. From Ulavi, there are other stunning places to visit. To name a few: Shivapura Hanging Bridge, a Panchalinga cave and a viewpoint. There are 4WD jeeps, which will take you around these places for Rs.1000/- per jeep. Locals say the off-road is doable on a motorcycle, so you can give it a try if you are itching to ride your ADV motorcycle on these 4WD routes. It is said that crossing the Shivapura Hanging Bridge to reach Yellapura cuts the distance by more than half, though only two-wheelers are allowed to cross. There are many resorts and homestays around the national park area. Stay in one of them and explore the national park and the hinterland.

One State, Many Worlds - The tagline for Karnataka Tourism is true to every word.

 

 

The flat landscapes around Hubli gives way to lush forests and river Kali towards Dandeli and the Anshi National Park. Snaking through the Kali Tiger Reserve, emerge on the coast of Karwar, welcoming you with blue waters. Ride south and (southwest to) enjoy the unique beaches at Gokarana - with small forests skirting the shores. Travel another 50 kilometres towards forest and hills to be mesmerised by the wondrous Yana Caves. Satiate the appetite with some of the best vegetarian recipes at Udupi. Eventually, the fresh coffee directly from a plantation near Chikmagalur before heading home, and that's the 10-day road trip in a nutshell.

 

With our rides ready for a 2000km trip through the north and west parts of Karnataka - our beloved Duke 200 and Yamaha FZ-150 – we started on a fine Saturday morning. The ride was eventful on the monotonous PB road with kind and encouraging elderly men admiring a lady riding a motorcycle. Bharati Lodge - an old building with parking available inside the premises - situated right next to the central bus station has clean rooms and options for all budgets. The traffic on the Hubli-Dharwad Road kept us awake most of the night. Hubli comes alive on Saturday nights with a young crowd (mostly students) from the neighbouring Dharwad city are seen having a good time at fancy eateries and updating their Instagram. 

 

 

After an early breakfast from the local favourite Ayodhya Restaurant opposite the bus station, we journeyed towards Dandeli via Dharwad. The road from Hubli to Dharwad is fantastic except for the traffic signal at every 200 meters. On the other hand, the Dandeli Road is in good condition and meanders through wooded routes. Nature First Eco Village is an ideal place to stop for a day if you want to skip the hustle and bustle of a tourist place. A sumptuous breakfast was Rs.100/- including a cup of tea. Continuing, we passed through Haliyal and reached our Airbnb place in Dandeli by lunchtime.

 

 

Dandeli is part of the Western Ghats region with an elevation of 472 metres having a tropical highland climate. It is named after a local legend, a deity called Dandelappa. Located alongside the Kali river, Dandeli is famous for white water rafting and other adventure activities like Kayaking, Zorbing, Jungle safari, Canoeing, River crossing etc. Anshi National Park, which was declared a Tiger Reserve in 2007, is part of Dandeli. In the olden days, the region was known for paper mills, sawmills etc. 

Huttridurga - The Northern Defender

 

Interspersed with thick vegetation and rocky outcrops, Hutridurga has a hiker’s treasured path. At about 100 kilometres from Electronic City, this is another blissful place close to Bangalore. This hill is also known as Uttari Betta, quite famous amongst one-day hikes near Bangalore. It is easily doable on our own as the path is clear-cut, with well laid out steps in the beginning. Wear a good pair of shoes, as some rocks are still being chipped at several places towards the peak to make steps. A small shop run by a humble couple near the entrance arch is a good option to replenish your nourishment before starting the hike. 

 

There are two ways to get to Hutridurga. For better roads and less confusion: Bangalore-Nelamangala-Solur-divert at Kunigal Magadi Road. Look out for the names Santepete, Uttari Betta or Hutridurga. This was around 102 kilometres from Electronic City. Another option is to come via Magadi, a shorter distance with 80 per cent good roads. The last 2 kilometres of the route, after the entrance arch, is under construction. 

 

The fort was built by Kempegowda in the 16th Century. It was a military bastion of Tipu Sultan, which was later acquired by the British around 1791. It is one of the Navadurgas (nine fortified hills) around Bangalore. This fortress is renowned for its seven-tiered fortification. Crossing seven levels will lead you to the peak -home to a temple dedicated to Shiva. Traversing through doorways made of stone, we marvelled at the vivid green of monsoon. The little statue of Nandi is a guide to deviate from the trail and take the steps towards the summit. The steps are narrower and steep between two boulders. 

 

 

Trek is around 5 kilometres, and once at the peak, a strong breeze welcomes you. On a clear day, you should be able to see Savandurga hill from here. The view of villages, other hillocks and fields around is breathtaking. The convention of having a small pond near the temple is followed here as well. Various viewpoints can be explored but be cautious, as the path after the temple is not evident and can get isolated. If lucky, you could spot a few vultures, thanks to the close proximity of the Vulture Sanctuary in Ramanagara. This is a relaxed one-day trip, with good roads and a well-treaded path topped with spectacular scenery.

The glory of Navadurgas - Channarayanadurga

Exploring places far-off, we usually forget to appreciate what is in and around us. To annul this habit, we embarked on exploring places close to Bangalore. Channarayanadurga grabbed attention for more than one reason. Half a day can be spent surveying the remnants of the fort besides admiring the view from different vantage points.

 

 

This piece of architecture was engineered by the not so eminent rulers of Madhugiri in the 17th Century. Fort has been occupied by Marathas, Mysore Wodeyars and eventually abandoned when it came under British rule. Treasure hunters have contributed immensely to the deterioration of the fort.

 

Consisting of three levels, the first is the strenuous part. The steep rock surface puts your cardiovascular fitness to a good test. Rock formations are fascinating, with beguiling contours made by flowing water. The landscape magnifies from a mere village to nearby water bodies, hills as far as your eyes can grasp, and a vast sky with feathery clouds. The scenery energises in the ascent, and soon fort walls are just a few steps away.

 

 

 

Walking inside the doorway of the fort takes you back in time. In the inner part sits a small pond undisturbed, in the company of a banyan tree. A compact temple on the shore, a tiny well, mantapa, forms the second level of the fort. The top of the fortress and the second rampart is visible from here. The climb here onwards is not demanding. Stroll around or sit by the pond, partaking in the tranquillity of the place.

 

 

 

The rectangular structure in the last part of the fort contrasts with the circular fortification of the first level. Various paths lure you into exploring the ruins, do so at your own risk, depending on the risk appetite. Only one pathway takes you to the crown of the fort. It is noteworthy how we huff and puff to hike this fort, which many years ago was built without machinery and technology.