Sikkim: Khecheopalri and Pelling

 

 

Yuksom is spelled differently across the signboards- Yaksum, Yuksam, Yoksum are just a few of them - all of them mean the same - 'meeting place of the three lamas', the first chogyal of Sikkim was crowned here by the three lamas in 1641 at Yuksom. Though the Kanchenjunga trekking's main trailhead starts here, this village is still sleepy and not overcrowded by development and tourists. There are very limited options for accommodation or food. Hotel Pradhan( 99330-19979; 97330-92407; d Rs 500) provides home-cooked food if you book in advance and Mr. B.P Pradhan is very friendly though loud. Other options are Hotel Demazong (d Rs 500) where most of the rooms do not have private bathrooms. Hotel Tashi Gang (03595-241202; dRs 1100) resembles a monastery, the best in this tiny village. There are two basic restaurants with friendly staff who serves most of the Indian and continental cuisine (mains Rs 50-100). Ask for HIT beer distilled at Yuksom Breweries, owned by the famous Bollywood actor Danny Denzongpa hailing from Yuksom known for villain roles in Hindi movies.

After finishing our 5 day trek to Dzongri, we were welcomed by the news of a 2-day 'bandh' (general strike) in the state of Sikkim. Not planning to stay further, none of us was carrying enough cash to survive next two days at Yuksom. That night, we arranged a vehicle to go to the nearest town -Pelling- where the nearest ATM is located. Luckily our four hour round trip was not eventful and we were successful in withdrawing enough cash. After extended sleeping hours and laundry work, we decided to visit the photogenic monasteries and trek through the village's sub-hamlets. While riding with Mr Praveen Sharma looking for a poultry farm, local politician stopped our car and threatened us mildly so that we don't drive the next two 'bandh' days. Gupta restaurant guys were giving us food and let us enter through the backdoors.

Dubdi Gompa is the most photogenic monastery at Yuksom, the oldest monastery of Sikkim established in 1701. The steep 1 hour climb is very steep and carry enough water and glucose with you before you start at the trail near the village clinic past the police station. Another photographer's attraction is relatively new Kathok Wodsallin Gompa near Hotel Tashi Gang and this is easy to reach. Inside, you will find a big statue and many paintings of eight manifestations of Padmasambhava (lotus -born) aka Guru Rinpoche or 'second Buddha'. Splendid Nagdhak Changchub Choling, entered through an ornated gate opposite Hotel Yangri Gang is equally photogenic, but beware of the furious guard dogs.

 

Tranquil Kathok Lake on the trail to Dzongri, near the village school will take your breath away, if visited in the early morning. From here the anointing water was taken for the coronation of the first chogyal of Sikkim in 1641 by the three lamas. The coronation throne is protected at the ASI site Norbugang Park, housing a prayer house, a few scenic cryptomeria pine trees, a huge prayer wheel and a footprint left by one of the three lamas. You will find many foreign Buddhists visiting these places for religious reasons than tourism. On the second day, we visited the local post office and sent post cards. Romit and Divya reserved a jeep to drop them to Jorethang to board their flight frm NJP at 3pm.

 

Later in the evening, we bumped at Victoria and two other trekking enthusiasts - Anna and Nicholas. Megha and I got excited about their plan to trek from Yuksom to Khecheopalri (pronounced 'catch-a-perry'), a highly revered holy lake, 10km by trekking trail and 30min by road. We signed up for this 6hour trek with the help of two local potter guys. Praveen offered help by transporting our backpacks to Khecheopalri lake as Praveen's wife and son also joined us in this rigorous trek and Sharath and Asha occuppied their seats in the Tata Safari.

We kicked off at 8am in the morning bidding adieu to Yuksom, led by Victoria the group ascended lofty mountains and descended to deep valleys trudging along the villages, scenic streams and hanging bridges. A friendly dog wagging his tail , followed us who shared biscuits and chocolates at our frequent pit stops. This was a heavily blood pumping trek and required good cardiovascular fitness, but worth every step of the trek through the forests. By 2pm, we reached Khecheopalri lake and visited the tranquil premises of the lake, the prayer wheels lining up the jetty, the prayer flags fluttering in the wind. After having lunch at the small shop near the parking lot, we booked a jeep, Rs 2000 to Pelling. As the shared jeeps leave at 6am in the morning, the only other option was staying overnight at the basic lodge near the parking lot.



Saying good bye to Victoria and friends who headed to a home stay, we reached Pelling after two hours and checked in at Hotel Simvo (03595-258347, d Rs 500-1200). Bargain for a room on the upper floors to catch an early morning view of Kanchenjunga, though the lower rooms are cheaper. There are many other hotels along the two kilometer stretch of Pelling as many Indian tourists throng here for a dawn view of Kanchenjunga and this small touristy town is well connected by bus and taxi. Be prepared to pay upto 50% more than the M.R.P ( Max. Retail Price) for packaged foods and supplies. Book your bus tickets at SNT Counter at Hotel Pelling (Rs 100, 5 hours) and you will be picked near the roundabout in front of Hotel Garuda. Replenish your cash valet at the SBI ATM if you are heading to Yuksom or any smaller villages. Visit any restaurants along the road to Lower Pelling but beer is scarcely available in the restaurants. You can head to Darpa village taking a day trek and stay in one of the homestays if you are averse to the tourist crowds.

After watching panoramic views from the helipad, walking 25min from Upper Pelling's roundabout, we reached Sikkim's second oldest Nyingmapa gompa- Sangachoeling Gompa. Set on top of a ridge overlooking the valleys, this gompa houses a monastic school and magnificent murals. We joined the junior monks in their games during their lunch break and reflected about living on the edge, sitting on the edge of the ridges. After lunch, we headed to Pemayangtse Gompa- the oldest gompa in Sikkim-30 min walk from Upper Pelling. Overlooking Rabdentse ruins- royal capital of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, this gompa boasts of a huge prayer wheel, colorful interiors, many murals and statues.

Next day, the SNT bus left at 7:30am and we reached Siliguri by 1pm. We headed to Nepal border and had lunch at Kakkarbhitta crossing the no-formalities border gate. On the way back to India(!), I met with a friend Liju, who is working as a constable in the all-women para-military border force SSB (Sashatra Seema Bal). We boarded the train to Kolkata at 9pm and spent the next two days tolerating the scorching summers of Kolkata. Victoria Memorial which depicts British(?) India's history and culture in a different perspective, iconic Howra bridge- a few among the local attractions we could run through. We used the metro, tram, taxi and bus in this erstwhile capital of India with architectural tributes of the past colonial glory. Unwinding the last night of our trip at a disc at The Park hotel, enjoyed the late night life of the city of Rasagolas. Reaching Bangalore on Sunday night did not make us think Bangalore is any cooler, blame the Global Warming. Not exceeding our budget, the total cost of the 16 days trip to Sikkim was Rs 1000 per hed per day including the train and return flight tickets. A priceless trip with memories of many first time experiences!!!

No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.  ~Lin Yutang

Sikkim: Yuksom-Dzongri Kanchenjunga trek

 

Two is a company and three is a crowd - that is what I was thinking when I discussed with Sharath about travelling to Sikkim in a group. Many aspirants dropped out after reading a detailed account about frugal backpacking trip which required good fitness, preparation and a mindset to live with basic creature-comforts. It was six of us - Romit & Divya , Sharath & Asha, Megha & I - who were on a Friday night train from Bangalore to New Jalpaigudi. We celebrated Sharath & Asha duo's first wedding anniversary with a cake and candle. Obattu prepared by Megha's mom deserves special mention in our culinary delights, apart from the dinner bought by Srini and roti/rasagolas at Malda. After 2D/2N in the train with food-sleep-talk-leg pulling -games cycles, we stayed overnight at NJP at Hotel Sahara( NJP Station Road, d Rs 550).There are many hotels on this road which is 10min walk from the station, while cycle rikshaws will surround you to get a commission by taking you to a hotel of their choice.



On Monday morning, we were welcomed by a travel agent with his Jeep for an unbelievable Rs 1200 for a group of six. Later, the cross-selling agent was offering us package tours in Sikkim. Leaving him behind, we headed to Siliguri (shared auto Rs 15) and boarded a comfortable bus (Rs 100, 6 hours, Tenzing Norgay bus station) to Gangtok. Enjoying the scenic drive across Teesta river and a few hydro-electric projects , we reached Gangtok by 2pm after a lunch break. Watching daily life in Gangtok, we had to walk for an hour to find a nice and cheap accommodation at Hotel Highland(31ANHWay, d Rs 600). Closed to vehicle traffic, MG Marg at Gangtok reminded me of the Champs Elysee in Paris as it looked like a florist's shop rather than a busy road in India. Strolling along MG Marg, we checked out different options for a 5-day for Kanchenjunga trek at Yuksom-Dzongri trail. Altitude Tours & Travels (Tourism Bldg, MG Road, 9832370501; www.trekkinginsikkim.com) is a good pick- Rs 1400/person/day for a 5 day trek. This fare includes your porters, yaks/mules, food, accommodation at trekkers-hut (sleeping bags/mats) and two nights stay at Yuksom. There are many tour agents along MG Road, use your bargaining skills before you sign-up. Chilling out at Tangerine(Gound fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet Rd; beer Rs 80) at the Japanese-style floor-cushioned bar was the best way to unwind sipping Dansberg Blue beer.

Tuesday, after handing over the documents- ID proof, two passport size photographs, we were ready to take a shared jeep (Rs 150, 6hours) to Yuksom around noon. The best possible capacity of these long-chassis Mahindra jeep is 11 (3-4-4) and if they squeeze in one more person, it is tad tiring for this six-hour trip. Charming route will not get you bored - iron bridges, construction sites, frothy white rivers, lovely people and village life. We checked in at Hotel Demazong (d Rs 500) where backpackers pile up and if you are lucky, you will get one of the three bedrooms with private bathroom. Dined at Gupta restaurant, serves almost any cuisine in the world. We met our guide Deepak at the hotel and other potter buddies were ready at 8am. Enjoying the fresh air of Yuksom, we compacted our luggage to 50% - to make the mules' life easier- leaving three backpacks at the hotel reception and carrying the essentials in our daypacks. You can leave anything that needs electricity as there is no power at the trekker's hut. You can arrange your permits from Yuksom but may have to wait for a day to sort out the paper work.


Yuksom at an elevation of 1780m(5840feet) is the starting point of Sikkim's most rigorous trek to Goecha La at 4940m(16200ft) and this whole trek will require 7 to 10 days depending on various factors- weather, acclimatization etc. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) will hit once you go above 3000m(9800ft) and the fastest will be the first one to get by AMS. Headache, lethargy, dizziness are mild symptoms, which may develop more severe and can be fatal. You can treat mild symptoms by staying at the height you reached for a day or two and popping up a paracetamol will help to alleviate headache. If condition aggravates, descending to a altitude of 500m less is required and if that doesn't help, hospitalization is essential. Hydrate yourself drinking plenty of fluids and water. Do NOT drink alcohol. Carry thermals, fleece jacket, Down feather jacket, thick trekking shoes, woolen socks, Down gloves, skullcap with you to be warm in the high altitude.

Our trek was planned into 5 days.
Day 1 - Yuksom1780m(5840ft) to Tsokha 3050m(10000ft) - 9 hours - hiking 5000ft.
Day 2- Tsokha to Dzongri 4025m(13200ft) - 5 hours- ascending 3200ft
Day3- Round trek to Dzongri La 4550m(14930ft) -6 hours- climbing to 1730ft.
Day4 - Trek back to Tsokha and give rest to trembling knees.
Day5- Back to Yuksom and unwind sipping a beer (HIT).

On day one, hiking through Rathong Valley past a village school, check post and a few traditional village homes, the ascent is gradual and enthralling through the unspoilt forests and a few hanging bridges. A few stretches in this phase were blood pumping and we were not able to catch up with the yaks and mules who were moving at a constant pace. A few fellow trekkers, European travelers passed us after a few hours. We stopped at a trekkers'-hut for lunch and it was more than a basic lunch at the mountain ridges. Crossing a few hair-rising hanging iron bridges, damp and wet rocky trails, thunderous water falls (many heard but not seen) this hike demanded more cardio-vascular fitness. Sunlight was scanty through this green forest and thick fog was hiding the trail. At Bakhim, while stopping for a tea-break, we met with Praveen Sharma and his family with a wonderful mountain dog -Scooby. After catching up with Sharath and Romit couples, we strolled up the next 300meters, watching mist-soaked magnolia flowers. Taking a few short-cuts reduced the distance but increased the heart rate to three digits. After using most of the body muscles and those below torso in particular, Nike Run Club stretching sessions helped us to rejuvenate the sore muscles.


Reaching the rustic hamlet of Tsokha after nine hours was a big sense of achievement. Sipping hot tea and munching biscuits, we were chatting about our enthralling experience hiding our tired and cold feet in the sleeping bags- all six of us in a single room at the basic trekkers' hut with no electricity. There were another two dozen hikers and potters thronging various huts and staying in the tents pitched outside. After a sumptuous dinner, we did not miss the chance to try tongba- in a girded wooden tub of fermented millet seeds onto which we poured boiling water and sip the resultant liquid using a bamboo straw.

Ideally we should have spent two nights at Tsokha for acclimatization before ascending to Dzongri 4025m(13200ft). We started the next day morning at 8am to Dzongri and the trail was quite difficult as this was at the altitude of more than 10000ft and breathing becomes more tiring. After a few hours, we were excited to see the snow patches on the way and two hours later, there was just snow everywhere. Trekking through 18inch thick snow was enthralling amidst the snow fall, keeping an umbrella helped not to get wet. Keeping a good pair of footwear -running shoes or sneakers don’t help in this trail; invest in a proper trekking shoe- will help you from falling on the snow. Skating through the downhill stretch was real fun. As we were late to reach Dzongri for lunch, at around 2pm our potter friend carried a kettle with piping hot tea and that was a big relief for all of us. We reached the meadows of Dzongri and collapsed and cuddled up on the floor of the trekkers' hut main hall as the hut got booked-out and we could not get a room. A slight headache was affecting all of us and staying at Dzongri one more day was ruled out as two of us were pretty sick of the high altitude and bitter cold.

Though the night time mercury reading was -3 degree Celsius, getting up at 5am next day morning, 3 of us climbed up a nearby hill to catch a glimpse of magnificent Kanchenjunga ranges. Going to Samiti Lake 4200m or Goecha La 4940m was not possible in 5 days and as this was our first high altitude trek, we did not want to go higher. Washing face in the water formed by melting ice at 13200ft - I can't express that in words! After breakfast, we decided to descend to Tsokha- the return is the same route, though the weather was not permitting a speedy descent- rains, muddy rocks and slush. We reached Tsokha by evening and rested there for a day chatting with Victoria- an English traveler from Germany. Romit and Sharath tried their hands on laundry and the radio was playing English songs and a faint live commentary of Cricket World Cup. Next day, trekking down to Yuksom was more than pleasant.

On the way back, saying the slogan 'If you are not trekking on the edge, you are using too much space on the trail', I was stepping on the stones at the edge of the trail. One of them just fell off and two seconds later, I was hanging onto a bush like in the movie Cliff Hanger. Megha looked back and did not see me on the trail and she found me hanging in the air. I saved my water bottle first and then calmed down Megha and myself. Slowly I could climb up, thanks to the strong roots of the bush. Hereafter I was using the extreme left side of the trail instead of the edges. We reached Yuksom by evening and checked into the hotel after our successful 5 day trek to Dzongri in the Kanchenjunga ranges- many first time experiences in this eventful trek.

 

Your attitude decides the altitude you reach!

Wayanad- Chembra and Meenmutty

 

Wayanad – the best location for treks in Kerala. If you love jungles there are numerous options – Thirunelly, Tholpetty are just a few places where you can’t get through without a wild animal -deer, gaur, elephant- encounter. I visited Wayanad in July, 2009 during a heavy floods season – the biggest floods since 1952. Monsoon is the wrong time to go for a trek to Chembra peak- a major goal this time. Inspired by Sandeep’s trekalog- http://usandeep.com/trekking/chembra2.html  Megha and I zeroed in at Chembra peak trek in Wayanad after considering Pakshipathalam and Thrunelly jungle trek options.

As we wanted to experience the backpacking thrill, I firmed up to take mass transport to Wayanad. Another reason was that Bandipur forest will be closed from 9 pm and 5 am and driving through Bangalore-Mysore-Bandipur-SulthanBathery is not possible on a Friday evening.  So I booked tickets to Kalpetta on a KSRTC Airavat Volvo bus for a cost of Rs 400/- per seat.

ValleyView Avenue Homestay at Kanthanpara, Rippon, Meppadi, Wayanad (Rs 2500/- including breakfast, dinner) is one of the most recommended homestays in Wayanad. You may contact Jinoy  at 04936 280550/09349423910 to book your rooms. Jinoy was exceptionally helpful to book return tickets from Kalpetta to Bangalore as KSRTC Airavat did not have a boarding point on the way back at Kalpetta. He will organize local transport to pick and drop you to various points from the home stay at a cost of Rs 1200/-

We were at Shanthinagar bus station at 8:30pm to board the 9:45pm bus mitigating the risk of Bangalore traffic snarls on Friday evenings. While waiting  for the bus I sneaked into the Sri Lankan stories from Megha’s  New Year trip, it was 10:30pm when we boarded the bus...with just two backpacks, we were looking like experienced backpackers at the bus station amidst a crowd of passengers and bundle of huge luggage. As 4:30am was ETA to reach Kalpetta, I appealed the bus staff to stop at Kalpetta and wake me up.

4:30am at a small town in Kerala was not eventful  but well lit up with a few newspaper boys. Jinoy and his helper Joby reached in a Maruti Omni van to the town in 30min to pick us. Valley View Avenue was true to the name as it was an excellent place amidst the coffee estates and overlooking Soochippara  waterfalls, though thick fog was covering the waterfalls mostly.

After a short nap and breakfast, we were ready to visit Meenmutty falls- the biggest in Wayanad-which was around 20km from Rippon. As we take the Meppadi-Vaduvanchal road, take a left turn at Vaduvanchal to visit Meenmutty falls. Once we pay Rs 300/- for upto 5 people, a guide will lead us to the foot of the falls. Vana Samrakshana Samithi ( Forest Conservation Forum) will ensure that you don’t carry even one ounce of plastic with you and if you want to carry a plastic bottle you will have to deposit Rs 100/- with the VSS staff as a security refund. Being in the anti-plastic crusade I gave unsolicited advice to Jinoy and Joby against mineral water bottles and plastic usage. They were pleasantly surprised that we were carrying enough water with us filled from the home stay.  The trek distance to falls is less than 2km but it was not an easy terrain and the VSS had tied some ropes at the most difficult and precarious trails inside the jungle. Being a Saturday a crowd of 50+ people were present at the waterfall premises but alcohol consumption or nudity  was not there that I have seen at most of the falls in Karnataka. So this place is recommended for women travellers.

After spending almost an hour at different perspectives of the falls and capturing the beauty through the camera lens, we started hiking back through a different route. A tad more difficult but less crowded route was heavily blood pumping after a while. On the way back, we found a shack selling water melon, butter milk to quench our thirst and rest a while. Gooseberry preserved in salt water brought me primary school memories as I used to buy the same for 2 paisa per piece in 1984! We headed to Bathery town boarding a local private bus to have lunch and visiting 13th century Jain Temple was the agenda. Edakkal caves was closed for restoration and Pookote Lake was not feasible as it would be closing at 5pm. Megha was  amused at the bell and thread infrastructure in the local private bus to communicate between the bus driver and door keeper to start and stop, and I realised that this mechanism is unique to buses in Kerala.

12th century Jain temple (8am-6pm) with marvelous stone carvings reminded me some of the history lessons from school and though not a big complex, this ancient temple and the tranquil premises were well kept by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). The snake puzzle on the temple pillar was not easy to solve and I carried back a photograph of the same to solve it later. We were absorbed by a light drizzle in the evening and travelling back in a local private bus and KSRTC bus was the best way to experience the local culture.

Visiting Kanthanpara falls very close to the home stay was another exhilarating experience as well pillion riding with Joby on his motorbike. Joby’s culinary skills welcomed us in the evening with snacks/tea and with a sumptuous dinner in the night. Watching Soochipara falls from the balcony and enjoying the piping hot tea made this home stay worth every buck we pay.

Next day morning, after a few photo-ops of the morning fog, we packed our breakfast and reached the entrance of Chembra peak by 8:30am, thanks to Jinoy for dropping us. After paying Rs 500/- (up to 10 people) and guided by the VSS staff we started our trek to Chembra peak carrying a hefty breakfast in our daypacks. Started at 9am and by 11am we were at Hridaya Saras- heart shaped lake. Breaking our trek for breakfast and finding a cool and shady spot inside the jungle we relished puttu and kadala curry with our guide. The bananas from Jinoy’s backyard were cherry on the cake.  After fueling ourselves we started on a slow pace to complete the trek with a target of reaching the peak at 12:30. The weather was near perfect as the clouds kept the scorching sun hidden most of the day and the cool breeze kept sweating away. Guide was sceptical about reaching the peak and was a little discouraging, as he kept on asking if we are retiring half-way. VSS should appoint more encouraging staff as guide who does not hurry or discourage the trekking enthusiasts who come to Chembra peak. He was boasting about foreigners completing the trek in 5hours and he was proud of the fact that generally people will go back from Hridays Saras and I think he was expecting us to do the same so that he can reach back for his afternoon siesta. Being the highest reachable peak in Kerala and South India, this peak is also the highest peak at 6890 feet sans the Himalayas is easily reachable on foot. 

After 4 hours, at 1pm we reached the peak and that was a sense of achievement scaling the last 3 peaks in one hour.  We enjoyed the beauty for 30 min on top of Chembra peak and started trekking down in a while. By 4pm, we reached the foothills and we met Jinoy and Joby on our way to the main gate. After a short eat of bread and the left over kadala-curry, we had an early dinner and was ready to leave ValleyView Avenue home stay and the mesmerizing lofty mountain and deep valleys of Wayanad by 9pm in the night. Our extremely gracious hosts dropped us back to Kalpetta town to board a Kallada bus to Bangalore and the trip came to an end next day morning at 6am once we reached the concrete jungles of the IT city.

Cherrapunjee- Hidden Treasure in Abode of Clouds

A solo traveller is never as isolated as the term sounds. Even if I leave home alone, my journey will be lively with the company of local people and other travellers. Read the full story...


The British used ‘Scotland of the East’ catchphrase to describe Meghalaya’s dramatic waterfalls and Rocky Mountains. I would not think this is an overplayed sobriquet. Meghalaya is ideal for both the armchair and adventurous traveller. Once you are in Guwahati, don’t wait for a permit, just board a mini bus (Rs 78, 4hours) from ISBT terminal. Alternate option is to grab hold of an Indica or Sumo from Paltan Bazar for Rs 150/200. If you love sexy curves, bring your own vehicle and tackle the winding roads of Meghalaya- good tarmac and splendid views; I was missing my Yamaha RX100. Once you cross the Assam border there are just three colours- blue sky, green forests, black roads. After a shameless bargain, I could obtain a bed at Hotel Blue Pine (0364-2229814, GS Road s/d Rs 300/600 geyser, TV). Hotel Ashuthosh Inn (0364-2221276/94361-65135, s/d Rs 550/850) and Hotel Rainbow (0364-2222534, d Rs 700) are two more options on G.S Road. Met with Mr.Biju Joseph- a friend of HV Kumar and he briefed me about a few sights nearby and Mawlynong village. MMTP (Mallu-Mallu Trfr Protocol) worked well between us.



Shillong:
At an altitude of 4,908 feet (1,496 m) above sea level, shivering evenings at Shillong call for a fleece jacket. Walking around Police Bazar, Bara Bazar and Ward’s Lake gave glimpses of Khasi culture. Khasi women wear a pinafore in checked cotton, tied up on one shoulder. Including women, everyone chews betel leaf; lime and areca nut go together. Evening food stalls, western-clothed college students and the tourists flocking around it was more crowded than I was expecting. Yellow-and-black Maruti Suzuki 800s ply as city taxis carrying a minimum of seven people and it can go up to ten (Rs 5-10 per hop). Shared taxi is a good concept- 1)Cheap 2) Low carbon footprint 3)Always a girl is sitting next to you!




Meghalaya Tourism offers package daily tours to various places of interest, check their office near MTC bus stand on Jail Road if you are an armchair tourist. English is more useful than Hindi; many of them speak first-rate English with a Welsh accent without any trace to the Indian language influence, thanks to the Welsh missionaries. Most of them are Christians and religiously attend church on Sundays.

Rise with the sun and you will not miss the fun. I was using Google Maps on my cell phone for directions, thanks to Savindra Tiwari-Sachin’s brother who gave me a Meghalaya mobile connection. After munching an omelette and noodles, I made use of the Hindustan Bedford city buses to hop on and hop off to go around the city. After photographing All Saints Cathedral, Welch Presbyterian Church on Kachari Rd–illustrations of the Colonial timber architecture, I walked to Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Culture (http://www.dbcic.org/ near Sacred Heart Theological College, 9:30am-3:30pm). Tours at DBCIC last for an hour with excellent audio visual presentation and tribal artefacts displayed in the seven storied tower. Humbled by the tribal life and dance forms of the Northeast states I acknowledged the fact I have seen very little of this region so far.

Umiam Lake was my destination after a yummy lunch – pork noodles and sizzling soup. Spread over 220 square km, popularly known as Bara Pani meaning Big water is 17km north on the Guwahati-Shillong road which you can’t miss; by shared Sumo Rs 20, 40minutes. There are many adventurous water sports if you are not aqua phobic. Later in the evening, I met with Ms. Carol at D.D Laloo & Co, G.S Road- they sell camping gears and two colourful tents dragged me to this shop. Carol (Tel: 9863115302) takes care of the cleanest village in India- Mawlynong and as there was no easy mass transport to this village I decided to head to Cherrapunjee and got Mr. Bansan’s (Tel: 9615093898) contact from her and confirmed a bed at his hotel.

 Sohra village (Cherrapunjee):
A sleepy town with basic infrastructure compared to crowded Shillong; 60km from Shillong, you can reach this statistically wettest place in the world by a shared Jeep/Sumo for Rs 70. The telephone exchange at Sohra is out of order for last two years or so! Reading from Lonely Planet, I was riveted to the idea of trekking down to see the ‘living root-bridges’; so nothing else was not a major treat for my camera- Nohkalikai Falls, Mawsmai Caves, Monoliths and grassy moors. By evening, I met with Bansan; a tourism graduate who left his career at Pune and running a hotel/restaurant at his hometown - we had a long chat for hours. It was like meeting an old friend again after a long time; strangers are friends yet to meet. Bansan mentioned that he is going fishing to a nearby river with his friends and I casually asked him. “Can I tag along with you?” Though he was dubious about my fitness to trek down to the riverside and stay with them with minimal creature-comforts, I could convince him I will do anything to enjoy the nature and reiterated that I am not a tourist but a traveller. Sharing a fag and chewing a betel leaf with him made our friendship even stronger. I checked in at his place - Halari Restaurant (near Police Station, s/d Rs 600/800), the best accommodation in my trip.



Living Root Bridge:
Next two days’ agenda was trekking down to Meghalaya’s unique ‘living root-bridge’. Bansan gave me a hand-drawn map to reach the root-bridges and made arrangements to stay overnight at Nongriat village. Ficus Elastica tree-roots are trained over a period of more than ten years by directing the upper roots of the trees to the other side of the river and penetrate the soil. The roots gain strength over time and form a sturdy bridge and some of them are 500 years old and the “Double Decker” is the most legendary.

At 8 am paying meagre Rs 10 for breakfast- two puris, sabji and a red tea, I walked down to Mawluh village past Cherranpunjee Cement Ltd factory. Bansan was waiting near his house at his village and gave me the directions to the bridges. Though there was an option to take a taxi to Mawshamok, next 10km walking was appealing due to the flora/fauna and pleasant weather. Walk past the tiny hamlets of Mawshamok and Tyrna- your last option to get food-Lumsophie will welcome you with millions of butterflies of various colour and size. Giant spiders cast their enormous web to catch these sexy beauties. I was spellbound by these fluttering splendours and just watched them standstill. There were a few set of concrete steps going down and I chose the first set seeing the tiny board of ‘living root-bridge’. A few dozen steps past, I did not know how the next few hours were spent and I was deep inside the forest. Natural springs, butterflies, steep up and down trekking-finally; I was at the root bridge-the unique architecture in the world was worth the physical strain. Nongriat village was supposedly after the root bridge, so crossed bridge and hiked for another one hour but could not find my way further after a waterfall. I started digesting the reality that I am on the wrong trail, hiked back to the starting point and I lost my way. Though my fear factor is close to zero, Man Vs Wild episodes flashed through my mind. I did not have the equipment or skills of Beary Grills; one packet of biscuits, water from the springs, magnetic compass and following my instincts –I was back to Lumsophie village by 4pm- after a good adrenaline rush. There I found the countless concrete steps over the next 3km to the double-decker, but decided to return as I hated concrete steps and I was running out of energy after 8hours of hiking. Got back to Mawshamok and while munching some snacks; I befriended with a gentleman from that village on his way to Shillong who offered a drop back to Sohra and I was back at Halari Restaurant.

Next day, I took the same hiking path to see if I can go further after the water fall. Cederic from France – I met him during breakfast -was an avid rock climber and he joined me in this trek. Both of us could not find any route further the water fall and returned by 4pm and had lunch at a tiny restaurant at Tyrna- rice and boiled pork; the smart and attractive girl at this place spoke fluent English, cooked two omelettes as a bonus. There were a dozen kids aged around two or three saying ‘Hi’ to Cederic and asking him ‘What is your name?’ We got a taxi back to the hotel; bon voyage to Cederic and I was looking forward to go fishing next day. Double-decker? Next Year!






Trekking down to the River:
Since 8 am, I was ready and waiting for Bansan and friends. They arrived at 11 am with tents, sleeping bags, grocery and fishing rods. Aaron Laloo (Tel: 9774031871) owns XSV adventures and organises camping tours, trekking, hiking etc in Meghalaya. Sympian was the fourth person- works at the cement factory. We were dropped 2km from the town to start trekking down to Lyngam River. After two hours of knee-breaking steep trek, we reached a tiny village and two other villagers- Bah Pen and his cousin joined us. Their hospitality was commendable and they provided red tea and some snacks. In their baskets, there was a chicken travelling with us and some other food items. By evening after 6 hours we reached the riverside. Pristine blue coloured crystal clear water! Tranquil and pleasant weather and musical waterfalls! I can’t ask for more in life. We pitched our tents and a makeshift kitchen was ready. Delicious fish curry and rice was cooked for the dinner– never had such a tasty fish curry -kudos to Bansan.



Next day in the sun-soaked late afternoon, I took pleasure in swimming. Later, I learned from Bansan that not many knew swimming and they were watching me with admiration. Bamboo canoeing was another tough but cardiovascular activity. There was a hair-rising wire bridge right across the river to cross and reach other villages. I made tea in the evening and pop corn was our snacks. We were camping in tents for two nights and three days. Fishing, swimming, rock climbing, bamboo canoeing, cooking, bonfire were the highlights. We relished smoked pork, baked beans, chicken and fresh fish with rice for meals. Aaron explained fly fishing and demonstrated the same. I was amazed seeing his toolkit and various gadgets for fishing- he had been doing this since childhood.



On the Rocks!
Bah Pen and his cousin amazed me with their life skills-they have a solution for every problem from nature. They used tapioca as food for fish and immersed the baits in finely cut rectangular blocks of tapioca. Compared to the modern fishing rods, bamboo poles and homemade wheels toiled better in fishing; Bah Pen placed his baits strategically after spotting big arm size fish resting on the rocks in the river belly. Mercury was hovering around 14C; a bit chilly at night and warm during day. Chicken was carbonated entirely before cooking and rice was cooked in water mixed with chicken blood - called 'Jadoh' in Khasi. After three days of living with bare basic creature comforts, I was a lot contented with life. Sipping rum and brandy, smoking French tobacco and local ‘Joy’ bidi, chewing betel leaf, enjoying the camp fire, I lived my ‘reclaimed’ life –next to riverbed, sleeping in tents and – ON THE ROCKS!

Khublei Sohra!

By Sunday, we trekked back to the town, taking multitude of breaks and we were back at Halari by 7pm and Pork Hakka noodles welcomed us. I stayed two more days at Halari and took a Sumo back to Shillong, and then I was a bit satiated with 4 weeks of travelling, searching for new friends, adventure, and experience. I would go back to Cherrapunjee during monsoon (Apr-June) to enjoy the dramatic thunder showers.

I booked a tatkal ticket GHY-ERS using NGPAY from mobile and got back to Guwahati to board that train. Stayed at Ananda Lodge (s/d Rs 140/200 MN Road, Ph: 0361-2544832) for a day. During my return trip, I got another friend in the train -Ms. Liju –she is working in the paramilitary force SSB (Sashastra Seema Bal) guarding Indo-Nepal border. When I reached Kerala, the pouring rains welcomed me and I felt so good to be home. A dream of visiting Northeast India was fulfilled- was planning since 2008; indeed it was worth waiting two years!

Footnote:
The no of plastic bottles I bought in 30days is ZERO. I drank from restaurant/hotel jug, tap water at railway station, natural springs in forest, river water while camping and my tummy was never upset. Bottled water is just a marketing gimmick. At  the rate of 5 litres of water per day I should have bought 150 bottles.

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT!

Tawang - Unexplored Paradise

I am surprised why Tawang is not part of Tibet. Geographically and religiously it makes perfect sense to me if Tawang was part of Tibet. More military personnel are found in this town than civilians, because it borders with Tibet and Bhutan and much-hyped tensions between India and China. Tawang was the center stage for 1962 Indo-China war. One of the first places to witness snowfall in Indian Himalayas, Tawang ranges from 6000ft to 22000ft. Tawang has a great importance in Budhism as 6th Dalai Lama was born, 13th was hiding in 1911 avoiding the Chinese invasion on Lhasa and the present (14th) fled this way to India in April 1959. The second largest Budhist monastery in the world is situated here. Politically this sleepy town plays an important role as McMohan line passes through Tawang, signed in 1914 Simla Accord between the plenipotentiaries of British India, China and Tibet. Thanks to HV Kumar for the persistent morale boost in this trip and Lonely Planet guidebook for the guidance.

In Line Permits:
If Tawang generates interest in your traveller, first learn about the permits required to enter Arunachal Pradesh. It sounds ridiculous that an Indian national needs ILP (In Line Permit) to enter this state. Arunachal permit is a two day affair and you apply on a working day, the permit will be issued the next day 10am- need two passport size photographs and ID/address proof copies, original has to be shown to the officer. Pay an amount of Rs 30/- for the application form and processing. If you need to go to another place in Arunachal, a separate permit is required- Itanagar and Tawang calls for two permits- so carry enough copies of ID/address proofs and photographs. Arunachal Bhawan is near DownTown hospital on G.S Road, Rukmini Gaon, Dispur. Any bus to Dispur from Paltan Bazaar will carry you there. If you are more tech-savvy and not in a leisure mood to waste one day for this permit, you can contact Himalayan Holidays and they will arrange your permit if you email them photograph and ID proof and ILP can be collected at Guwahati. http://himalayan-holidays.com/


Rest of India prepaid mobile connections do not work in Northeast India. So if you need relentless mobile connectivity, make sure you have a postpaid connection from rest of India. While waiting for the ILP for two days using the cheap network of city buses, I was exploring Paltan Bazar, Fancy Bazar, Kachari Ghat, Cotton college etc enjoying the delicious Assamese food and a comfortable stay at Ananda Lodge (s/d Rs 140/200 MN Road, Ph:0361-2544832) Guwahati. My survivable Hindi speaking abilities were put to test while interacting with the locals especially during evening chit chat with Mr. Upen (Tel:9859722990) working at the lodge. Many were surprised to meet with a solo India trotter and “I am from Kerala” was helpful as everyone knew at least one Keralite.




Tezpur:
You can’t reach Tawang in a day or one go if you are using mass transport. Guwahati-Tezpur-Bomdila/Dirang is the way to go, by halting a night at each place. One fine day morning, I boarded an ASTC bus to Tezpur from Paltan Bazar bus station adjacent to the railway station. A shuttle service bus took me to ISBT terminal and in a deluxe 2+1 bus, I was tavelling comfortably to Tezpur at a cost of 145/-. Worst case, you can obtain a seat in a Tata Winger from Network Travels, Paltan Bazar at a slighly higher cost. It takes 5 hours to reach Tezpur and post lunch, I settled at Hotel Center Point (s/d/st Rs 450/600/1400 Main Road, Opp. Police Station) at Tezpur. The City of Blood, this ghastly name is not justifiable -well kept parks and lakes makes Tezpur one of the best towns in Assam. Exploring this town on foot gave me a kaleidoscope of Assamese culture and scenic views -Padun Phukhuri Lake, Chitralekha Udyan, Ganeshgarhg temple, Agrigarh Hill, Oguri Hills and sandy Brahmaputra banks. Unexpected delight was a group of boys and girls from a school with multi-ethnic Northeast characteristics dancing to the tunes of a folk song and this was being shot by semi-professional videographers. 4pm sunset gave a good view of mighty Brahmaputra.



Tezpur to Dirang:
Wake up with sunrise and reach a few Sumo counters along the road near the bus station, I could secure a seat to Dirang for Rs350/-. Tata Sumos do a great job in this route with 12 people and 500kg of luggage.The last row is really bad and your head will develop a bulge if you are not carefully holding on to the seat. The roads are yet to be asphalted, I could see more buldozers and earth movers than cars or jeeps. A long convoy of army vehicles delayed our trip many times on this post war scenes like roads. Passing Bhalukpong, Tenga, Seppa and Bomdila, I reached fabulous stone village Dirang after 9hours, thanks to a puncture and the bad roads.




Dirang:
At an elevation on 1621m, this Tibetan village was chilly at 5pm in the evening, it was close to single digits on the mercury. Though it is not publicly available like Bhutan, if you seek you will find a restaurant to warm up with a peg of whisky for Rs 25. I could find a cheap accommodation at Hotel Moon (03780-242438, s/d/tr 200/300/600 w/ shared bathroom and TV). Hiking around the Dirang valley next day morning after a nice breakfast and red tea- more appropriate name than ‘black tea’ as per its color, gave me immense pleasure to meet the locals, ITBP (Indo Tibetan Border Police) officials and a few kids. The kids wanted a printout of their photograph, after getting a printout for Rs 20 I was searching for their house showing their photograph and a neighbour lady promised me that she will deliver to the intended recipients. Apart from the Yak club and Dirang monastery, a hot spring 30min walk on the way to Tawang, Rs 50 by taxi one way is not to be missed at Dirang. While the temperature outside is hovering around 10C, it was too cozy to scrub the dirt and fatigue enjoying the warm medicinal bath. SBI ATM is the only option to pull out money and its downtime is not predictable-so withdraw enough money when you see the ATM working. Deforestation for firewood and plastic littering are two major issues to be curbed in this Monpa village. Uttam was my best friend at Dirang who runs a stationery shop.



Dirang to Tawang:
I was seated in a Sumo by paying Rs 400 for a Tawang ticket and when I reached Se La Pass at 4176m where snow will appear first in early October, my dream of watching snow in India was fullfilled. A few switchbacks on this end of the world endless roads, there is a little shack to serve you tea near Jaswantgarh - a 1962 war memorial for three soldiers who combated bravely to protect their motherland. Lhou village, 18km before Tawang is very attractive according to the locals and you may detour if you are driving own vehicle.




Tawang:
3048m above MSL, accommodation at this jaw-droppingly scenic valley is expensive and the cozy Hotel Dungphoo( 03794-223765 d with pvt bathroom Rs 600) was my favorite. Getting across with the rest of the world is painful from the telephone booths, better inform your dear ones that you are in a paradise where ‘connecting people’ is far from a dream. Touristy destinations are Tawang Gompa- 2nd largerst Budhist monastery in the world, Gyangong Anigompa for Budhist nuns. I took a little more pain to wake up at 4am and caught up with Lobsang (9402650726/223277) who offered to take me around Tawang. We set out at 6am to see the early snowfall and spotted Yak(male), Dri(female), Dzo(crossed with domestic cattle). Lobsang was entertaining - stories varied from his 14yrs army life, family, legends about lakes and temples, Budhism and Dalai Lama. We covered Shungetser Tso(Madhuri Lake, named after the Bollywood flick Koyla), P.T Tso lake and many more lakes each of them was prettier with the bare black rocky mountains and the lakes border frozen subsoil supporting low-growing vegetation. Though restricted to civilians and foreigners strictly prohibited; Lobsang’s acquaintance with the military made our Tawang safari pleasing covering some of the highest motorable roads in India by his peppy Suzuki Alto. ‘Lhasa 508km’ was a tempting signboard but there is no overland route from India to China. I salute the army men who spend their best part of life in the bunkers with limited creature-comforts at sub-zero temperatures to protect Tawang - a roadblock in Indo-China reconciliation. Jai Hind!!




Post a sumptuous Naga lunch with rice and pork fat, I explored Urgelling Gompa, learning the basics of Yellow Hat branch of Tibetan Buddhism, Tawang Monastery meditatively watching the Buddhist nuns, War Memorial thanking the 2420 soldiers who gave away their life to a eventually unsuccessful war - the legends and history made me more knowledgeable and humble. The population at Tawang seems to be affluent and literate, fashion conscious youngsters riding pricey motorbikes and apple-cheeked school kids are omnipresent. Private transport are hatchbacks and mass transport is managed by a fleet of Tata Sumos-Land Rovers of India. For a 10hours Tawang Safari, I paid Rs 2500 to Lobsang; a token of appreciation of Rs 200 extra for the breathtaking places in the paradise unexplored and a good friend’s company. People are very friendly, I was running into the kitchen in the restaurants to warm up from the piercing cold, -5C temp in the night and shops/restaurants comes to a halt at 6pm. A sense of national identity is lucid and they proudly proclaims ‘our country’ and ‘our army’ during patriotic talks; contrary to the popular notion that this part of India is the ‘least Indian’.


Bomdila:
Though I was planning to reach Tezpur from Tawang in one day, I had to break my journey at Bomdila, after I found that there is a Togyar festival at Bomdila monastery. Phurpa Tsering my friend from this trip hails from Tawang and looking forward to marry again which is common in  polygamous Monpa tribes. Tata Sumo, I had been travelling broke down due to leaky radiator and the driver kept trying his best by pouring turmeric powder to fill the hole in the radiator and frequent stops to fill water from the streams. I collapsed at Bomdila, Hotel La(03782-223344 s/d Rs 250/350) and the owner Tashi TSering and I were close friends after an hour of conversation.
  


Tashi woke me up next day morning and invited home to treat with special tea - butter, salt and local tea leaves. Tashi spoke faultless English, graduated from a college at Shillong and his grandfather was in Lhasa for higher education. He loves South Indians and been to Chennai and our conversation topics were religion, south Indian hospitals, languages in Arunachal. He has nice new rooms added to the hotel, built behind the old wooden building. I explored Bomdila on foot - APST bus station did not show a sign of life, the annual day celebration at the vast ground was spellbinding. Hiked up to the Bomdila monastery to watch the mesmerizing Togyar festival dance forms.  A clown tickled our funny bones and he did a good job of fund raiser. Wearing masks of skulls and various demons, the lamas performed cham to the accompaniment of traditional Tibetan instruments- used in Tibetan Buddhism to exorcise devils. A vegetarian nutritious lunch was provided free of cost to the audiences. I befriended with Samudra Vijaya from Mumbai and Kedar Mukherjee from Mumbai who were participants of National Trekking Program organised by Himalayan Holidays, and their experiences were enchanting.





Finally it was time to say audieu to Arunachal Pradesh- ‘The land of Dawn-lit Mountains’ home for 65 different tribal groups -Monpa, Adi and Apatani are a few of them. Declared as a fully fledged state in 1987, Arunchal has more than a dozen tribal languages and Hindi is widely spoken and used as a common language among locals. 7 hours of Sumo trip via the winding roads and I am back at sweaty Tezpur from freezing Bomdila and set to Jagiroad, Assam to celebrate Diwali with Sachin; I needed a vacation from my trip :-)


 

Life is  ONE, Make it LARGE !

Kemmangundi - The picturesque hill station

 

Kemmangundi in the state of Karnataka, India, at a height of 1434m above sea level, is known for its valleys that plunge into deep lush bowls of tropical forest sprinkled by rains and waterfalls. This sprawling hill station was the summer house of King Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV and within Tarikere Taluk of Chikmaglur District. It is ideal place for trekkers, is about 250 km by road from Bangalore with impressive waterfalls, misty mountain peaks, natural streams, thick-pile carpeting of vegetation and a few insects -thirsty leeches and chirping crickets. Major attraction is Hebbe Falls: the descending narrow route of 8km will take us for views back up to the falls and cliffs, where water gushes down from a height of 168 meters in two stages to form Dodda Hebbe (Big Falls) and Chikka Hebbe (Small Falls).

 

Starting on a friday evening is ideal for Kemmangundi-Mulayangiri trip. We took NICE road from Bangalore city to reach Neelamangala and reached Chikmanagalur in 4 hours as there was no heavy traffic. Staying at Chikmangalur that night was more viable since driving to Kemmanagundi after dark hours is not advisable. there are a few lodges. Next day morning, drove towards Kemmangundi via Lingadahalli (45km) instead of taking the Mulayanagiri route. Locals will guide you to Mulayanagiri route, so ask for Lingadahalli on the way. Take a left turn just after an IBP petrol bunk on this road- last option to fill fuel tank.


Accommodation options are either at Horticulture Guest house (if you are lucky to get a booking) or the bigger Raj Bhavan. You need to call at LalBagh, Bangalore (Tel: (080) 26571925, 26570181, 26570824) to book your rooms. There are also limited home stay options. At the guest house, the once-pleasant rooms have some scuffing and bathrooms are stained. Bring your own bed linen or sleeping bag. Though tatty, these rooms are cheap and cost Rs 200 for a double room.There is a restaurant and it serves veg and non-veg food options but with a limited menu. The kitchen cooks up whatever it happens to have in stock. if you need more creature comforts there are a few home stays in and around Kemmangundi. We settled at Ozone Valley, a nice homestay which is on the way from Lingadahalli. This family-run homestay will stay and food at 1000/- per head. Negotiable during off-peak season, provides comfy sleeping options with clean attached bathrooms.

After rejuvenating at the water falls you can take a jeep back if you ran out of fuel, otherwise you can trek back. Jeep drivers charge you 400/- one way and it is a 4WD jeep track and the jeep will be tested its climbing skills at various point en-route. You may hit your bones against the metal inside the jeep. The walkaholics among us walked back and the exhausted took a jeep back. We had lunch at the guest house restaurant and they were ready to keep their 'CLOSED' board after 6 of us hogged most of the food available there. After resting for a while, we warmed up through the waving trees and mud roads to pit ourselves against Z-point. This is a must-visit place at Kemmanagundi - 2km from the Horticulture restaurant. Walking 30min through the winding route along the lip of the vast green mountain is the only way to reach here.

Raj Bhawan: RajBhawan is a better horticulture guest house - the best accommodation you can get at Kemmanagundi. This ideal honeymoon destination, offers a spectacular view of the surrounding hills. Sunset seen from this location is memorable. The Horticultural Department of the Kemmangundi maintains a beautiful rose garden here in Kemmangundi with a wide range of rose blooming in this garden. Raj Bhavan is at a further 15min drive from the guest house and the rooms are good value and nicer than the gloomy corridors and lobby suggest and this hard-to-beat option has helpful staff, zealous room service and superb food.

Mulayanagiri:Next day morning we started start to Mulayanagiri - this is a scenic drive but a tad dangerous due to the potholed roads . Bad tarmac and winding road- but the the view on your side is breathtaking. We took two hours to reach Mulayanagiri since we stopped often to enjoy the nature.The Mulayanagiri peak with a height of 1,930 metres (6,330 ft), it is the highest peak in Karnataka. Climbing endless steps was a test on our knees but the scenery is magnificent. After scaling this peak, it was time for lunch and we headed towards Chikmangalur town. Kemmangundi is amazing for its cool temperature and this was particularly realized when we reached sweaty Chikmangalur at 2pm.

What to carry: Some winter wear and trekking gear. A torch and umbrella will be handy and a pair of change clothes as the waterfalls are tempting.

Precautions: Salt, tobacco, Odomos etc for preventing leeches. Turmeric powder to stop bleeding and itching once you are bitten by a leech.

When to go: Any time when you feel you are stressed and need some cool and fresh air. Oct to Feb will be relatively colder. The maximum and minimum temperature range varies from 18 to 28°C

How to reach: There are two routes from Bangalore: Bangalore –Nelamangala – Kunigal- Hassan –Belur –Chikmagalur –Lingadahalli –Kemmangundi (Reccommended) Bangalore –Neelamangala- Tumkur-Karur-Kemmangundi. Either way it takes almost the same time. Hassan route - roads are good in surface and traffic is more whereas Karur-Tumkur road surface is bad but traffic is less.

 

By Bus: You will get KSRTC bus from Bangalore to Hassan and Chikmangalur, from there you have to take another bus to Kemmangundi. Owned/rented vehicle is more convenient as the public transport is not very frequent from Chikmangalur.