Kabbaladurga - Night Trek

70km from Bangalore and 20km from Kanakapura, Kabbaladurga is visited by devotees during day to worship at the temple on top. This monolithic rocky mountain is precipitous at a height of 980m (3234ft) overlooking the village and a few other mountains nearby. To find the route to this sleepy village where you will spot a cattle shed in front of every house, turn right from Kanakapura main road where the left turn takes you to Muthathi. Kabbaladurga temple is famous among the locals and you can use the Indian GPS ( stop and ask anyone on the road).





Bangalore Mountaineering Club was organizing a night trek to Kabbaladurga peak on Aug 6th, thanks to Saurav for forwarding this information. There were two other colleagues from GE who joined in this trek, the total headcount was 14. They charge Rs 800 per head and includes transport, breakfast, sleeping bags. You can find more details of such treks and long weekend trips - http://www.bmcindia.org/
 

On Saturday night, we headed to the pick-up point near Lifestyle showroom on Richmond road. There were a few other waiting for the bus that starts from Wind Tunnel Road. I was pleasantly surprised at the number of girls who turned up for a trek. Krishna from BMC and others picked us and the vehicle was heading to Kanakapura through the torn apart roads by Namma Metro project. We reached the base at 12midnight and it was a half-moon night. Krishna briefed us about the plans and gave us our sleeping bags to carry with us. Megha and I realized that we forgot to pack our torch (such an insult) and it was going to be a tough job to hike up without a torch. Plan was to reach the top in two hours and stay (sleep) until 6am and descend. The group reached the first steep ascent and everyone was sleepy and gasping for breath. Following Yogesh's torch light, we were leading the group mostly. Whenever we were doubtful about the route further, we used to wait for Krishna.

The climb is very steep and there is no clear path to provide grip. The locals have carved a few tiny steps just enough to place half of your foot on the most precariously steep rocks. There are electric poles on the way and you need to watch those cables while climbing up. Sometimes using all your legs and hands and climbing up like a monkey is recommended. Try to avoid the slippery parts of the rock where the water sweeps down as it provides no friction. Without a torch light it was too dangerous to take any step.

In two hours with a few breaks gulping water and waiting for others we reached the peak by 2am. It was drizzling a bit and rain cuts were handy. The peak was very cold and mercury levels were reading 14 degree Celsius. Moreover the wind was very strong and you would feel you will fly off if you don't hold to something. Megha was so excited as she was the first one to reach even before me. Once Krishna reached the peak with the tail end at 3am, he walked around the bushes to collect firewood to set a campfire. We were walking on the edges of the mountain through fog and it was a wonderful experience. Krishna asked if anyone smoked in the group and Saurav was running to him thinking Krishna is offering a cigarette. Krishna was asking for a matchbox or lighter. I was glad to find that none of the group members were into smoking.

Lighting up the fire was another Herculean task and none had a lighter or matchstick except a girl who had kept it for lighting up a few candles for her friend's birthday. Krishna, with the help of others trying out paper, plastic, dry grass etc lit up a the firewood and that provided a cozy warm feeling amidst the thick fog and wind. Then he started the 'Mafia' game which put a few of us to sleep and other s to continue the game until day break. The wind gathered more momentum and I felt I would be flying with the sleeping bag. Luckily it was not raining, we were sleeping on the rocks without a tent. Packing myself maximum into the comfort of the sleeping bag I slept until 6am and morning rush to watch the clouds floating woke me up. It was heaven on earth!!! You will feel like floating along with those cotton like clouds…

Reality struck me when Krishna asked us to pack up the sleeping bags and start descending. Descent was even more difficult as at many parts of the trek you will have to descend vertically without any grip or anything to hold. Sitting and sliding down on your bums is the easiest way to tackle this and always remember to lean against the rock instead of the air which can't support your heavy body. In 45 min, against the expected 2 hrs we reached the base. After freshening up we waited for others while trying to catch up with a power nap inside the vehicle. By 9:30 am we were in Kanakapura munching a much rewarding breakfast and we were home by 11am. Looking forward to more such organized treks by BMC.

Skandagiri- neighbor of Nandi Hills

 

 

 

If you have been to Nandi Hills, you must have seen an equally tall rocky mountain towards the northwest of Nandi Hills. Skandagiri, 4500ft (1364m) tall stands majestic with no motorable roads to its peak. If you are a human being with medium fitness, you can reach the peak without much exertion in 2-3 hours. Skandagiri is best climbed in the evening if you are prepared to stay overnight. A tent, sleeping bag and food supplies are necessary to spend your night on the top and watch the magnificent sunrise with the clouds below your feet. You might be surprised to see vendors selling you firewood, noodles, eggs and bread on top of Skandagiri on a full moon night and don't be surprised if you are welcomed by hundreds of trekkers who reached before you to spend the night on the sprawling peak of Skandagiri.



Megha and I decided to visit Nandi Hills and Skandagiri on a Saturday morning. After tackling choc-a-bloc Bangalore traffic and riding past BIAL airport, we reached the left turn to Nandi Hills at 10am. Welcomed by farmers selling grapes along this road and amused at the residential projects by Prestige estates, we reached a T junction. Take a left turn and you will head to Nandi Hills. Instead turn right and drive until you reach another T-junction near ancient Bhoganandeeshwara temple. A left turn and head to Muddenahalli - birthplace of visionary Sir M. S. Visweshwarayya whose architectural works of art consist of Vidhana Soudha and Brindavan Gardens. You can not miss the obvious sign board to take the left turn to this tiny village. Passing a school, we reached another junction with a few shops and we had a sumptuous breakfast for meager Rs 18 - 4 idlis, 2 dal vada, 1 tea. Turn right at this junction and drive another 2km, you will reach the base of Skandagiri. Make sure you don't park your vehicle in a private plot. Sometimes, you will bump against guides offering their help for Rs 100 or so, which may not be a big help unless you are trekking in the night.

 On a pleasant cloudy morning with occassional drizzling, we were in high spirits to ignore Skandagiri and to try to climb another rocky mountain next to Skandagiri. This mountain did not have a clear trekking route and half-way we decided to surrender and come down to the base. There was a vendor who gave us timely energy with salt/chilies spreaded cucumber slices. She asked for biscuits or chocolates, but all we had were oranges and she was more than happy to grab two of them. The climb to the peak is not so easy but you will not run out of breath if you go at a constant pace. There are no vertical climbing phases which test your cardio fitness. Breath-taking light and shade views of the green mountains to the east side and well-laid rectangular paddy fields to the west side will make you stop and look through your lens or binoculars to capture those spectacular view.

Some parts of this trek are through 10 feet high bushes and this will give you a feel of walking through a dense forest with scanty sunlight. The last 30 min is quiet steep and you will think every 10min that you have reached the peak. On the peak, there is a stone structure which provides shelter to the vendors from rains and winds. We could reach the peak in 90min, the temperature at the peak was 17C, lower than 10 compared to the base, thanks to the breeze and thick clouds. After being on the top munching lunch and resting, we started our descent. The knee-trembling descent was not faster and took 90min to reach the parking. On the way, a very old man asked for food and we gave him the last two oranges left with us.

 

After tea and biscuit, we headed to Nandi Hills to reach there before 6pm, the ticket counter closes. The sunset was not seen as the clouds were dark and thick blanketing the sun but provided some magnificent views of crepuscular rays. It was chilly weather there but the tranquility is spoiled by the crowd and rush of vehicles.At Nandi Hills, you can stay at Nehru Nilaya, the Horticultural Guest House (08156-250901, r Rs 350-1500) with a restaurant. But if you have a group of friends and camping gear, staying on top of Skandagiri can not be compared. On the way back, we did the obligatory purchase of farm fresh grapes from a small boy for Rs 45/kg. For a day's outing Skandagiri and surrounding village offers a lot to see. Around October, you will find silk farming on the road sides and it is amusing to watch those silk worms and cocoons.

4WD Army Jeep from Chennai to Cochin

This road trip was done in July 2010 while I was working with HDFC Bank at Cherthala -my hometown. I took two days leave, after visiting Deepak at Palarivattom,  boarded a KSRTC bus to Coimbatore from Cochin to attend a friend's wedding reception. I spotted this Mahindra 4WD 550 jeep custom built for Indian Army and Rexy, a friend from college days who used to participate in bike races in and around Kerala with this Suzuki Shogun and Yamaha RX135. I couldn't help jumping off from the KSRTC bus at the next speed breaker and join Rexy to Chennai. My plan was to get down at Coimbatore but I fell in love with this 4WD which was auctioned later to scrap dealers at Chennai and decided to go along with Rexy to pick another jeep from Chennai. On the way to Coimbatore we had to stop at a workshop to change the canvas inside the wheel cup since the front wheels were wobling too much. Well prepared for this, Rexy had all the tools and spares for any kind of breakdown, including two spare wheels, foot pump, two hydraulic jacks, bearings, belts etc...a mini workshop and spare parts shop for a jeep.

We reached Coimbatore at 10pm and met my friend and wife, they were relatively free as there were not many relatives left out and I could chat with him for 15min though I missed out on the vegetarian dishes and good looking Tambhram girls. After a while we continued our journey to Chennai. After another 100km, both Rexy and Nasar were tired and they slept for a while parking on the roadside near a toll plaza. I rang up Nithin and briefed him about my whereabouts, I took shelter under a truck while there was a light shower. We reached Chennai next day morning 10am and went straight to the scrap dealer's yard.

Numerous vehicles from Army at this yard amused me. Shaktiman trucks, Suzuki Gypsy, Mahindra Jeep, Armada - you name any off road vehicle, you will find at least one here. These vechicles come with 98B XXX registration numbers for army. 10 years or later these vechicles will be auctioned as scrap. The dealer will get them to his yard and get an RC book in his name, pay road tax, get insurance etc. Rexy and similar automobile crazy guys will come to this yard and pick one or two vehicles at a price. Later this Jeep or Gypsy will be repaired and repainted with a new life and roll the wheels on road or an estate where 4WD is essential. We started fixing the four wheels so that we can tow the jeep back to Cochin, 700 km. We changed the bearings, lubricated the rolling parts and ensured there is enough air in the tires. Everything seemed fine and relaxing, by evening we retired from the yard unwinding after a night out on NationalHighway. Got recharged and start our journey at 8am on Sunday -at least that is what we planned for next day.

Sunday morning- after a high calorie berakfast, we were all set to start our 700km towing trip. Both old and new jeeps were wed-locked using an A-shaped connecting rod and bolted using U-shaped clamps. The jeep behind our jeep will turn and break as we steer and stop the one in front. Driving is not as easy as driving a single jeep since there will be force to either sides or forward when we take a turn or apply brakes. When we are about to reach Krishnagiri, we found that left front tire is wearing out than normal and the tire surface was abnormally hot. The root cause was not identified so we tried a different configuration for the tires keeping another tire at the left front. While we were changing tires from one side to another, I met Oswin on the road - they were coming back from Trissur to Bangalore. We continued with the new configuration towards Salem. It was found that the new tire is completely worn out in less than 20km! It was clear the tire will not last our next 500+ km. We tried a brand new tire which is expected to run 20000km and tried our luck. It was 10pm and we reached Bhavani, half asleep. The tire was 80% worn out and it would not last another 400km to Cochin from Bhavani. After parking the jeep on the roadside, we slept through the night. Searching for another tire next morning  did not go bad. Tata 207 tire which should be lasting at least 500km was found at Erode. 30hours are over since we started from Chennai and still more than half the distance to go. I got my mobile battery charged from a nearby shop and kept updating Facebook about my trip with pictures.

Finally after various diagnosis and trial and error methods, Rexy found that the driving shafts were jammed at the left front side which was a hindrance for the tire to freely rotate at the turns. It was fixed in 5 minutes with a hammer! We lost 24hours and two tires already!! Anyhow, enjoying the slight drizzle and the cool weather, we drove on NH47 towards Coimbatore. By 2am we reached Angamaly where the workshop is just 10km away. I parted my way with the army jeep and took a KSRTC bus to Cherthala and reached home at 4am. No air conditioner but that was the coolest trip I ever did on road. No mobile car charger - but we were fully charged throughout. 

I am not sure Rexy is doing the jeep refurbishing now. You can contact him at Kalamassery very close of Cochin University  campus; he has a shop named Twinkle.

Perseverance is the key in this mission-completed in 4 days and costing a few tires!!

Honeymoon in Honey Valley

 

 

 

 

Rains!! The clattering of rain drops on top of the mangalore tiled roof at my grandmother's home always urged me to get out and drench in the rains. So when I called up Suresh Chengappa asking for accommodation for two, he could not detriment my desire to trek in rains. Once I told him that I hail from Alleppey, he knew I am born and brought up in rains. When I was a baby, my grandmother used to give me bath and she never used to dry my head completely so that I develop immunity to get drenched in rains.


After shutting down the laptops and corporate life, I was home at 7pm on last Friday evening. Megha had packed all the bags and kept the essentials ready- Jyothi Laboratories' MAXO insect-repellent cream as active safety against blood-sucking leeches and turmeric powder as the passive safety once they bite you- are the top priority apart from the usual first aid kit. We also packed two John's umbrellas of 545mm width -imported from Kerala and light weight rain cuts from Decathlon. KSRTC runs volvo buses to Virajpet starting from Majestic at 11:30pm and the ticket costs Rs 400 per head. I was impressed by the fact that we can board any BMTC bus to Majestic free of cost if we are taking a KSRTC bus from there. Our bus started at 11:40pm and the route was Bangalore-Kengeri-Mysore-Gonikoppal-Virajpet. At 5.30am on Saturday morning, we were at Virajpet.

The sleepy town of Virajpet was just waking up to their daily chores sans a few newspaper vendors and auto rickshaws. We walked towards the Private Bus stand around 1.5km away. On the way, I picked up a Malayala Manorama and so excited to read it after a long time. Megha and I debated if Malayalam or Kannada has jilebi look alike script. We pit stopped enroute to have a tea at a 'chayakada' and I was cross-questioned by a police man on why I was taking his picture. I was not. I was taking the picture of the bus stand with the fog in the background. Once I showed him the picture, he was ok. The linguistic advantage in Kodagu region is that you can speak either Malayalam or Kannada. Mix up both and you speak something which is close to the local language.



The private bus 'Ganga' started at 6:50am after its morning ablutions -changing the tires and radiator check up. After 45min ride through the winding roads, we reached the destination -Kabbinakadu junction. Even if you are coming in you own vehicle, you need to park it at a nearby parking lot and board the 4-wheel drive jeep from Honey Valley estate, as the last 4km to the home stay is accessible by a 20 minute 4WD jeep ride or by walking for one hour. This ride was one of the bonus as Ganesh tackled the muddy and slippery jeep track by shifting through the 4WD gears. This reminded me of my trip from Chennai to Cochin towing a military jeep using another 4WD jeep through national highway.

Honey Valley is not a resort- it is run by Mr.Suresh Chengppa and his wife who settled here 28 years back. They have a sprawling coffee estate and you can stay in one of the rooms or huts catering to different budgets. Food is with a fixed vegetarian menu and if you are a carnivore, order in advance and those dishes will be served at your dining table.


Honey Valley has it's own hydro-electric turbine for electricity and bio-gas plant for cooking. Heating water for shower is done by solar and firewood. Many European backpackers come and enjoy the lush greenery and rains as Honey Valley is listed in Lonely Planet and other travel guides. Mr. Suresh is well-read and spoke Malayalam, Kannada, Hindi and English fluently. He has a vast collection of fiction and non-fiction books apart from National Geographic magazines. His calmness and grey hair spoke about his eventful past life and I was impressed at his 'been there done that' attitude. His son is currently travelling around the country and he called home from Kashmir two days back.


Route: Bangalore-Srirangapatna-Hunsur, Virajpet-Kabbinakad -235km; By bus: Bangalore-Virajpet (6hrs) Rs 500, Virajpet-Kabbinakau (45min) Rs 18.

Accommodation: The basic double rooms with shared toilets Rs 350, Double rooms with attached bathroom and geyser Rs 800, 4-bed room Rs 1200. Contact: 0822-238339, 200325, Email: honeyvalley_2000@yahoo.com, http://www.honeyvalleyindia.in/

After a sumptuous breakfast and piping hot coffee made out of freshly grounded coffee powder, we walked to a nearby waterfall taking directions from Mr. Suresh. A friendly dog was guiding us to the waterfall and you will hear other friendly dogs barking when you walk near the fenced boundaries of the coffee estates. After a relaxed 15min walk, we were at the bottom of a 25-feet waterfall with magnificent cascades hidden in the forest. It was not another crowded waterfall with drunk semi-nude men, but peaceful and calm where you can spend hours reflecting on life. We were back around lunch time and on the way back, I was attacked by 3 leeches. The insect-repellent was washed off my feet while walking in water. MAXO was very handy to get rid of the leech and applied turmeric powder at the bites to help blood clotting and as an antiseptic. After lunch, the rains gathered strength and we spent the afternoon gazing at the rains and listening to the clattering of heavy downpour on the Mangalore tiles.



In the evening, sipping hot coffee we discussed our plans to hike Mount Thadiyandamol (1745m) with Mr. Suresh. He was really happy gathering our interest in hiking and he gave me a booklet he had prepared with detailed map and directions for 18 hikes starting from Honey Valley ranging from 2 hours to full-day. We wrote down the whole route to Mt. Thadiyandamol but still I asked him for a guide if available. He was not sure of getting one the next morning, as the tribal people are not greedy and if they have the bread for the day, they did not care to work for tomorrow. Though it sounded very philosophical, I was convinced next day as our guide vanished after showing up in the morning.

After breakfast we started around 10am picking up a picnic bag with bread, cucumber, tomato, jam etc. We reached the "Dry Pond junction" which is the starting point to all the trails and this tiny pond was filled with rainwater. From this point, we had a little confusion about the path towards Mt. Thadiyandamol. Anyhow, we started hiking through the most tranquil and scenic path expecting that it would lead us to the peak. Listening to the numerous crickets and frogs, we walked for almost two hours. Crossed multiple streams skirting the mountain on our left side and making our path through the dense forest and thickets of wild hibiscus. After a while, we could not find any obvious path but could see Thadiyandamol peak and walked towards that by wading through knee length grass and bruising our legs and shoulders against the thorny bushes. It was really adventurous to walk through a path that was not listed in the booklet of 18 trails and both of us were thrilled at the 'Man Vs Wild' episode in our honeymoon trek. Whenever I was confused with my instincts I asked Megha to take the lead.

Suddenly Megha stopped and cried out as something bit her, I was horrified if that is a slither. She pulled out an insect from the ankle in a frantic reflex which looked like a leech but was different in texture and size. Blood started flowing without any indications of clotting. I pulled out the antiseptic wipes and cleared the tiny wound and applied turmeric powder. It did not show any relief and there was a sign of poking pain on her face. Iodine ointment was my next remedy, though in vain. Using a band-aid I tried to cover the wound and we decided to get back. As I write this after 5 days, still a tiny swelling is visible and it is paining slightly. Anyhow, we could not find a viable route to go further and it was just enough time to get back for lunch at Honey Valley. Definitely it was more fun to be in a off-beaten trail than going in a routine trail with a crowd polluting the trails with plastic garbage.

Mr. Suresh was surprised that we lost our way and returned. But he was encouraging and exclaimed 'it is not about the destination; it is the hike that is thrilling'. During lunch, we met a few French travelers and discussed about Catacombs under Paris and Decathlon products at length. Post lunch, we moved to a double room with a common toilet and the verandah was occupied by two ladies - one from Spain and the other from Russia. More backpackers were present in this building and one guy from Delhi was visiting this part of the country to study about frogs as part of his research. Enjoying the rains and a few cups of coffee, we spent our evening. By 7.30pm Mr.Suresh dropped us back to Kabbinakkadu junction. The last bus from Madikeri to Virajpet arrived at 8.20pm and we were at Virajpet by 9.15pm. Our Bangalore Airavat bus was at 10:45 and after dinner, we waited at the bus station. After a short sleep of 5 hours, we were at Majestic bus station at 4.00am. Back to concrete jungle and the only noise is that of harsh horns and screeching brakes not crickets and frogs. If you love rains and lush greenery, Honey Valley estate is the place to head to on any weekend.

“Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it.”

A weekend in Alappuzha

Alappuzha (Alleppey) is known as Venice of the East, with its planned canals - the doorway to the famous backwaters. What can be done in Alappuzha over a weekend? Here are a few things I can think of in this well-planned town, a tribute to Raja Kesavadasan's visionary architecture. The most common touristy attraction is the houseboat cruise. You check in to a larger than average apartment sized houseboat and stay for 23hours. Typically you can check-in on Saturday morning 10 am and check-out by Sunday morning 9 am. While you enjoy your lunch, evening tea, dinner and Sunday morning breakfast, don't forget to carry a book or movie DVD. The houseboats start from 'Finishing Point' named after the legendary Nehru Trophy Boat Race. Finishing Point is 10min walk from the Alappuzha KSRTC bus stand, you need to take a newly-built bridge across the canals or Rs 20 by auto-rickshaw. If you are reaching by a train, you can hire an auto-rickshaw to Finishing Point by paying Rs 40 from the train station, 4km southwest of the town center.

There are more than 1000 houseboats in the 900km network of backwaters across the farmlands in Alappuzha and neighboring districts of Kottayam and Kollam. Long before the network of the roads were built, these canals were the main transport channels and even today some of the far inlands are connected by KSRTC boats than buses. The houseboats are the biggest tourist business in Alappuzha post the former prime minister A.B Vajpayee's famous vacation in Kerala. There are differently sized houseboats suitable for any number of people- up to seven bedroom boats are available. When you reach Alappuzha town, you will be surrounded by many travel-agency reps offering houseboat trips. Contrary to the popular belief, it is not possible to travel by houseboat between Alappuzha and Kollam or Alappuzha and Kochi. The quality of the food and infrastructure varies broadly- from old sinking vessels to palatial ships. It is strongly recommended to check your boat before agreeing for a price, make sure the toilet taps and air-conditioner are working fine.

 

 

 

For a couple, one bed room house boat will cost approx Rs 4500 to Rs 7000 for 23hours. The houseboats will be parked by 5pm in the evening next to the farmlands fringed by coconut trees in the far interior backwaters and coming out of the houseboat and going to the town or beach is not practical. If you want to reduce the cost, but experience the houseboat there is an alternative package. You can check- in the night around 8pm and stay overnight in the boat until 9am. This will cost Rs 3000 for two -dinner and breakfast are included. There will be two staff on board- a driver and a chef to cook the food of your choice. Don't forget to let them know your choice of food before hand, as they need to store the food in advance. You will cough up approx Rs 9000 for a two-bedroom houseboat and Rs 11000 for a three-bedroom. Note that this rate will escalate during the peak season -especially during Onam and Nehru Trophy boat race- Aug 2nd week of every year. Book your tickets through KSTDC for a pavillion seat away from the local crowds if you are planning to watch this mega event with thousands of cheering spectators. Carry food,drink and an umbrella as you have to stay there from 10am to 5pm.

Call Sabu (Cell 9446005514) of Goodwill tours for houseboat booking. His experience travelling all around India while he was in army will help to cater the guests' needs-familiar with food choices and conversant in Hindi, Tamil, Malayalam and English.

Once the boat is parked, you can swim in the backwaters or fish using a bamboo pole and a string machine. Set on foot to visit the nearby villages to watch farming, boat building, coir making, toddy (palm beer) tapping and fishing which makes the backwaters so exquisite. Kuttanadu -the region with the lowest altitude in India, and one of the few places in the world where farming is done below sea level- 300ft below MSL. Kainakary, 10km from Alappuzha by road and 45min by boat is a nice place to see the real Kuttanadu life. You may be lucky to see chundan vallam (snake boat) or canoe construction. If you are adventurous with food, try fizzy toddy and KFC(Kappa Fish Curry) from the local toddy shop. Not everyone's taste buds will tolerate the hot and spicy fish curry or 'kappa' (tapioca) at the toddy shop (Rs 60 for a bottle of toddy and Rs 50-100 for dishes). Ask for 'kallu shaap' if you would like to go on this trails. Consider staying awake in the night for a while gazing the galaxy of stars or waking up at 6am to catch a glimpse of the sunrise reflecting in the huge lake.

If you are on a frugal budget or if you think houseboats are too cheesy, there are some alternatives to watch the backwaters at a cheaper cost. Take a public KSRTC boat from the boat jetty next to KSRTC bus station. The boat jetty is hiding inside the Mangalore-tiled ferry opposite to a swanky jewellery shop on the main road to KSRTC bus station. Hop on to any boat that goes to Nedumudi, Kavalam, Champakulam and you are assured a good experience of backwaters at the cost of Rs 10 for more than 2 or 3 hours. Another option is a long 3hour trip to Kottayam crossing Vembanad Lake and coming back by either boat or bus.

Near bus station along the canals, rented canoe boats are available for a non-guided laze through the canals on a small, covered canoe for up to four people for two hours (Rs 600-1000) - this is another way to run through your Sunday tranquil afternoon before boarding the bus or train. I strongly recommend wearing a life-jacket on these canoes as they can topple easily when unfamiliar feet try to balance. Knowing swimming is not essential but is an added advantage.

If you are not staying in the houseboat, consider staying at a home stay near the beach for an early morning beach experience. Alleppey Beach Holidays Home stay (d Rs 750, with AC Rs 1000), Near Collector's Bungalow, Sea View Ward is an excellent option. Call Jose (0477-2241649, Mob: 9447103852) and book your rooms. From this home stay, walk for 5min passing the railway level cross, you are welcomed by the white sanded beach of Alappuzha and get close to the erstwhile sea bridge ruins and the lighthouse. This sea bridge was used for transportation of food supplies from the vessels to the FCI (Food Corporation of India) warehouse and you will find the remains of the rails along the bridge. Checkout if the boating in the lake near the beach is functional and lay your hands on a paddle boat or a rowing boat. Visit Sree Krishna Ayurveda (0477-329728; http://www.krishnayurveda.com/), near Finishing Point, unwind taking one-hour rejuvenation massage for Rs 600.

Train/Bus to Alappuzha: Taking a train or bus directly to Alappuzha is the easiest way to reach there. If not available, take a train or bus to Ernakulam and board a KSRTC bus from bus station to Alappuzha which will take less than two hours. There will be plenty of buses at the bus station heading south on the NH 47. Waiting for a train to Alappuzha from Ernakulam railway station is not recommended. An auto from Ernakulam railway station to bus station will cost you Rs 20.

Environmental issues - pollution from the houseboat motors and biological waste tfrom houseboat toilets hreaten the backwaters and the community life on their banks. Kerala govt. is enforcing a 'Green Palm Certification' for installing solar panels and sanitary tanks for the disposal of waste. If you are eco-conscious, please try to use the manually sculled boats or public boats to visit the backwaters instead of motorized boats.

Sikkim: Khecheopalri and Pelling

 

 

Yuksom is spelled differently across the signboards- Yaksum, Yuksam, Yoksum are just a few of them - all of them mean the same - 'meeting place of the three lamas', the first chogyal of Sikkim was crowned here by the three lamas in 1641 at Yuksom. Though the Kanchenjunga trekking's main trailhead starts here, this village is still sleepy and not overcrowded by development and tourists. There are very limited options for accommodation or food. Hotel Pradhan( 99330-19979; 97330-92407; d Rs 500) provides home-cooked food if you book in advance and Mr. B.P Pradhan is very friendly though loud. Other options are Hotel Demazong (d Rs 500) where most of the rooms do not have private bathrooms. Hotel Tashi Gang (03595-241202; dRs 1100) resembles a monastery, the best in this tiny village. There are two basic restaurants with friendly staff who serves most of the Indian and continental cuisine (mains Rs 50-100). Ask for HIT beer distilled at Yuksom Breweries, owned by the famous Bollywood actor Danny Denzongpa hailing from Yuksom known for villain roles in Hindi movies.

After finishing our 5 day trek to Dzongri, we were welcomed by the news of a 2-day 'bandh' (general strike) in the state of Sikkim. Not planning to stay further, none of us was carrying enough cash to survive next two days at Yuksom. That night, we arranged a vehicle to go to the nearest town -Pelling- where the nearest ATM is located. Luckily our four hour round trip was not eventful and we were successful in withdrawing enough cash. After extended sleeping hours and laundry work, we decided to visit the photogenic monasteries and trek through the village's sub-hamlets. While riding with Mr Praveen Sharma looking for a poultry farm, local politician stopped our car and threatened us mildly so that we don't drive the next two 'bandh' days. Gupta restaurant guys were giving us food and let us enter through the backdoors.

Dubdi Gompa is the most photogenic monastery at Yuksom, the oldest monastery of Sikkim established in 1701. The steep 1 hour climb is very steep and carry enough water and glucose with you before you start at the trail near the village clinic past the police station. Another photographer's attraction is relatively new Kathok Wodsallin Gompa near Hotel Tashi Gang and this is easy to reach. Inside, you will find a big statue and many paintings of eight manifestations of Padmasambhava (lotus -born) aka Guru Rinpoche or 'second Buddha'. Splendid Nagdhak Changchub Choling, entered through an ornated gate opposite Hotel Yangri Gang is equally photogenic, but beware of the furious guard dogs.

 

Tranquil Kathok Lake on the trail to Dzongri, near the village school will take your breath away, if visited in the early morning. From here the anointing water was taken for the coronation of the first chogyal of Sikkim in 1641 by the three lamas. The coronation throne is protected at the ASI site Norbugang Park, housing a prayer house, a few scenic cryptomeria pine trees, a huge prayer wheel and a footprint left by one of the three lamas. You will find many foreign Buddhists visiting these places for religious reasons than tourism. On the second day, we visited the local post office and sent post cards. Romit and Divya reserved a jeep to drop them to Jorethang to board their flight frm NJP at 3pm.

 

Later in the evening, we bumped at Victoria and two other trekking enthusiasts - Anna and Nicholas. Megha and I got excited about their plan to trek from Yuksom to Khecheopalri (pronounced 'catch-a-perry'), a highly revered holy lake, 10km by trekking trail and 30min by road. We signed up for this 6hour trek with the help of two local potter guys. Praveen offered help by transporting our backpacks to Khecheopalri lake as Praveen's wife and son also joined us in this rigorous trek and Sharath and Asha occuppied their seats in the Tata Safari.

We kicked off at 8am in the morning bidding adieu to Yuksom, led by Victoria the group ascended lofty mountains and descended to deep valleys trudging along the villages, scenic streams and hanging bridges. A friendly dog wagging his tail , followed us who shared biscuits and chocolates at our frequent pit stops. This was a heavily blood pumping trek and required good cardiovascular fitness, but worth every step of the trek through the forests. By 2pm, we reached Khecheopalri lake and visited the tranquil premises of the lake, the prayer wheels lining up the jetty, the prayer flags fluttering in the wind. After having lunch at the small shop near the parking lot, we booked a jeep, Rs 2000 to Pelling. As the shared jeeps leave at 6am in the morning, the only other option was staying overnight at the basic lodge near the parking lot.



Saying good bye to Victoria and friends who headed to a home stay, we reached Pelling after two hours and checked in at Hotel Simvo (03595-258347, d Rs 500-1200). Bargain for a room on the upper floors to catch an early morning view of Kanchenjunga, though the lower rooms are cheaper. There are many other hotels along the two kilometer stretch of Pelling as many Indian tourists throng here for a dawn view of Kanchenjunga and this small touristy town is well connected by bus and taxi. Be prepared to pay upto 50% more than the M.R.P ( Max. Retail Price) for packaged foods and supplies. Book your bus tickets at SNT Counter at Hotel Pelling (Rs 100, 5 hours) and you will be picked near the roundabout in front of Hotel Garuda. Replenish your cash valet at the SBI ATM if you are heading to Yuksom or any smaller villages. Visit any restaurants along the road to Lower Pelling but beer is scarcely available in the restaurants. You can head to Darpa village taking a day trek and stay in one of the homestays if you are averse to the tourist crowds.

After watching panoramic views from the helipad, walking 25min from Upper Pelling's roundabout, we reached Sikkim's second oldest Nyingmapa gompa- Sangachoeling Gompa. Set on top of a ridge overlooking the valleys, this gompa houses a monastic school and magnificent murals. We joined the junior monks in their games during their lunch break and reflected about living on the edge, sitting on the edge of the ridges. After lunch, we headed to Pemayangtse Gompa- the oldest gompa in Sikkim-30 min walk from Upper Pelling. Overlooking Rabdentse ruins- royal capital of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, this gompa boasts of a huge prayer wheel, colorful interiors, many murals and statues.

Next day, the SNT bus left at 7:30am and we reached Siliguri by 1pm. We headed to Nepal border and had lunch at Kakkarbhitta crossing the no-formalities border gate. On the way back to India(!), I met with a friend Liju, who is working as a constable in the all-women para-military border force SSB (Sashatra Seema Bal). We boarded the train to Kolkata at 9pm and spent the next two days tolerating the scorching summers of Kolkata. Victoria Memorial which depicts British(?) India's history and culture in a different perspective, iconic Howra bridge- a few among the local attractions we could run through. We used the metro, tram, taxi and bus in this erstwhile capital of India with architectural tributes of the past colonial glory. Unwinding the last night of our trip at a disc at The Park hotel, enjoyed the late night life of the city of Rasagolas. Reaching Bangalore on Sunday night did not make us think Bangalore is any cooler, blame the Global Warming. Not exceeding our budget, the total cost of the 16 days trip to Sikkim was Rs 1000 per hed per day including the train and return flight tickets. A priceless trip with memories of many first time experiences!!!

No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.  ~Lin Yutang

Sikkim: Yuksom-Dzongri Kanchenjunga trek

 

Two is a company and three is a crowd - that is what I was thinking when I discussed with Sharath about travelling to Sikkim in a group. Many aspirants dropped out after reading a detailed account about frugal backpacking trip which required good fitness, preparation and a mindset to live with basic creature-comforts. It was six of us - Romit & Divya , Sharath & Asha, Megha & I - who were on a Friday night train from Bangalore to New Jalpaigudi. We celebrated Sharath & Asha duo's first wedding anniversary with a cake and candle. Obattu prepared by Megha's mom deserves special mention in our culinary delights, apart from the dinner bought by Srini and roti/rasagolas at Malda. After 2D/2N in the train with food-sleep-talk-leg pulling -games cycles, we stayed overnight at NJP at Hotel Sahara( NJP Station Road, d Rs 550).There are many hotels on this road which is 10min walk from the station, while cycle rikshaws will surround you to get a commission by taking you to a hotel of their choice.



On Monday morning, we were welcomed by a travel agent with his Jeep for an unbelievable Rs 1200 for a group of six. Later, the cross-selling agent was offering us package tours in Sikkim. Leaving him behind, we headed to Siliguri (shared auto Rs 15) and boarded a comfortable bus (Rs 100, 6 hours, Tenzing Norgay bus station) to Gangtok. Enjoying the scenic drive across Teesta river and a few hydro-electric projects , we reached Gangtok by 2pm after a lunch break. Watching daily life in Gangtok, we had to walk for an hour to find a nice and cheap accommodation at Hotel Highland(31ANHWay, d Rs 600). Closed to vehicle traffic, MG Marg at Gangtok reminded me of the Champs Elysee in Paris as it looked like a florist's shop rather than a busy road in India. Strolling along MG Marg, we checked out different options for a 5-day for Kanchenjunga trek at Yuksom-Dzongri trail. Altitude Tours & Travels (Tourism Bldg, MG Road, 9832370501; www.trekkinginsikkim.com) is a good pick- Rs 1400/person/day for a 5 day trek. This fare includes your porters, yaks/mules, food, accommodation at trekkers-hut (sleeping bags/mats) and two nights stay at Yuksom. There are many tour agents along MG Road, use your bargaining skills before you sign-up. Chilling out at Tangerine(Gound fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet Rd; beer Rs 80) at the Japanese-style floor-cushioned bar was the best way to unwind sipping Dansberg Blue beer.

Tuesday, after handing over the documents- ID proof, two passport size photographs, we were ready to take a shared jeep (Rs 150, 6hours) to Yuksom around noon. The best possible capacity of these long-chassis Mahindra jeep is 11 (3-4-4) and if they squeeze in one more person, it is tad tiring for this six-hour trip. Charming route will not get you bored - iron bridges, construction sites, frothy white rivers, lovely people and village life. We checked in at Hotel Demazong (d Rs 500) where backpackers pile up and if you are lucky, you will get one of the three bedrooms with private bathroom. Dined at Gupta restaurant, serves almost any cuisine in the world. We met our guide Deepak at the hotel and other potter buddies were ready at 8am. Enjoying the fresh air of Yuksom, we compacted our luggage to 50% - to make the mules' life easier- leaving three backpacks at the hotel reception and carrying the essentials in our daypacks. You can leave anything that needs electricity as there is no power at the trekker's hut. You can arrange your permits from Yuksom but may have to wait for a day to sort out the paper work.


Yuksom at an elevation of 1780m(5840feet) is the starting point of Sikkim's most rigorous trek to Goecha La at 4940m(16200ft) and this whole trek will require 7 to 10 days depending on various factors- weather, acclimatization etc. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) will hit once you go above 3000m(9800ft) and the fastest will be the first one to get by AMS. Headache, lethargy, dizziness are mild symptoms, which may develop more severe and can be fatal. You can treat mild symptoms by staying at the height you reached for a day or two and popping up a paracetamol will help to alleviate headache. If condition aggravates, descending to a altitude of 500m less is required and if that doesn't help, hospitalization is essential. Hydrate yourself drinking plenty of fluids and water. Do NOT drink alcohol. Carry thermals, fleece jacket, Down feather jacket, thick trekking shoes, woolen socks, Down gloves, skullcap with you to be warm in the high altitude.

Our trek was planned into 5 days.
Day 1 - Yuksom1780m(5840ft) to Tsokha 3050m(10000ft) - 9 hours - hiking 5000ft.
Day 2- Tsokha to Dzongri 4025m(13200ft) - 5 hours- ascending 3200ft
Day3- Round trek to Dzongri La 4550m(14930ft) -6 hours- climbing to 1730ft.
Day4 - Trek back to Tsokha and give rest to trembling knees.
Day5- Back to Yuksom and unwind sipping a beer (HIT).

On day one, hiking through Rathong Valley past a village school, check post and a few traditional village homes, the ascent is gradual and enthralling through the unspoilt forests and a few hanging bridges. A few stretches in this phase were blood pumping and we were not able to catch up with the yaks and mules who were moving at a constant pace. A few fellow trekkers, European travelers passed us after a few hours. We stopped at a trekkers'-hut for lunch and it was more than a basic lunch at the mountain ridges. Crossing a few hair-rising hanging iron bridges, damp and wet rocky trails, thunderous water falls (many heard but not seen) this hike demanded more cardio-vascular fitness. Sunlight was scanty through this green forest and thick fog was hiding the trail. At Bakhim, while stopping for a tea-break, we met with Praveen Sharma and his family with a wonderful mountain dog -Scooby. After catching up with Sharath and Romit couples, we strolled up the next 300meters, watching mist-soaked magnolia flowers. Taking a few short-cuts reduced the distance but increased the heart rate to three digits. After using most of the body muscles and those below torso in particular, Nike Run Club stretching sessions helped us to rejuvenate the sore muscles.


Reaching the rustic hamlet of Tsokha after nine hours was a big sense of achievement. Sipping hot tea and munching biscuits, we were chatting about our enthralling experience hiding our tired and cold feet in the sleeping bags- all six of us in a single room at the basic trekkers' hut with no electricity. There were another two dozen hikers and potters thronging various huts and staying in the tents pitched outside. After a sumptuous dinner, we did not miss the chance to try tongba- in a girded wooden tub of fermented millet seeds onto which we poured boiling water and sip the resultant liquid using a bamboo straw.

Ideally we should have spent two nights at Tsokha for acclimatization before ascending to Dzongri 4025m(13200ft). We started the next day morning at 8am to Dzongri and the trail was quite difficult as this was at the altitude of more than 10000ft and breathing becomes more tiring. After a few hours, we were excited to see the snow patches on the way and two hours later, there was just snow everywhere. Trekking through 18inch thick snow was enthralling amidst the snow fall, keeping an umbrella helped not to get wet. Keeping a good pair of footwear -running shoes or sneakers don’t help in this trail; invest in a proper trekking shoe- will help you from falling on the snow. Skating through the downhill stretch was real fun. As we were late to reach Dzongri for lunch, at around 2pm our potter friend carried a kettle with piping hot tea and that was a big relief for all of us. We reached the meadows of Dzongri and collapsed and cuddled up on the floor of the trekkers' hut main hall as the hut got booked-out and we could not get a room. A slight headache was affecting all of us and staying at Dzongri one more day was ruled out as two of us were pretty sick of the high altitude and bitter cold.

Though the night time mercury reading was -3 degree Celsius, getting up at 5am next day morning, 3 of us climbed up a nearby hill to catch a glimpse of magnificent Kanchenjunga ranges. Going to Samiti Lake 4200m or Goecha La 4940m was not possible in 5 days and as this was our first high altitude trek, we did not want to go higher. Washing face in the water formed by melting ice at 13200ft - I can't express that in words! After breakfast, we decided to descend to Tsokha- the return is the same route, though the weather was not permitting a speedy descent- rains, muddy rocks and slush. We reached Tsokha by evening and rested there for a day chatting with Victoria- an English traveler from Germany. Romit and Sharath tried their hands on laundry and the radio was playing English songs and a faint live commentary of Cricket World Cup. Next day, trekking down to Yuksom was more than pleasant.

On the way back, saying the slogan 'If you are not trekking on the edge, you are using too much space on the trail', I was stepping on the stones at the edge of the trail. One of them just fell off and two seconds later, I was hanging onto a bush like in the movie Cliff Hanger. Megha looked back and did not see me on the trail and she found me hanging in the air. I saved my water bottle first and then calmed down Megha and myself. Slowly I could climb up, thanks to the strong roots of the bush. Hereafter I was using the extreme left side of the trail instead of the edges. We reached Yuksom by evening and checked into the hotel after our successful 5 day trek to Dzongri in the Kanchenjunga ranges- many first time experiences in this eventful trek.

 

Your attitude decides the altitude you reach!