Tawang-abode of Buddhist Pedigree

After loading the luggage, we set off at 6.30 am for the nine hour trip to Tawang that goes through Sela Pass (13,700ft) a gigantic mountain of mountains. Half an hour drive from Sela Pass you'll reach Jaswanth Garh in memory of Indian warrior Jaswanth Singh Rana who had fought alone against Chinese soldiers continuously for 72 hours in 1962 Indo-China war. On the way you geta view of Gorichen peak (22,500 ft), the highest peak in Tawang, looking like a cone ice cream. Passing through thick vociferous forest and valleys, this ride is enthralling sans the dusty roads under construction perpetually. Roads have been widened by BRO but marred by rain and landslide, with some phases really tough to get through. Need a turbo charger for your heart and an all-wheel drive for your legs and arms. Passing through the bustling town of Dirang and sleepy village Jung (located 2 km down the road is the Nuranang waterfall), we reached Tawang at 3.30pm.

Tawang aka Monyul is derived from two words Ta meaning horse; Wang meaning blessing - a place blessed by a horse that belonged to Mera Lama, the founder of Tawang Monastery. The inhabitants of the district are Monpas, immigrated from Bhutan and Tibet, courteous, friendly, gentle and industrious. North of Tawang lies the forbidden land of Tibet connected by the Bum La and the Tulung La passes.

Accommodation at Tawang is pricey as the tourist season is short and construction cost high. There are a series of hotels in Nehru Market and Old Market in the price range of 800 to 1200. Rainbow (03794 222348, dbl 750), NEFA (222419/9436227781, dbl 800), Country Guest House (224142, dbl 1000), Hotel Shambala, Hotel Mouny View (222340, dbl 1000-2000) Dungphoo (223765,dbl 1200). A few guest houses are mushrooming near the monastery. We got the best room at Hotel Mon Valley run by Tenzin Dolma right above the restaurant by the same name opposite to post office, Nehru Market (03794 222119, dbl 1000) at 30% discount, thanks to reference by Tashi's wife. The restaurant can dish up Indian, Chinese, Tibetan cuisines - a favorite among locals.

In mid October mercury varies from 15 C to -2 C at early morning. Thermals, woolen socks, down jacket are must and follow onion dressing, with multi-layer of clothes. Both BSNL and Aitlrtel networks are very patchy. Electricity supply is erratic, better to get an accommodation with heavy blanket rather than room heater. A back up line is provided by Government for every business establishment for lighting during black outs. Shops and restaurants close by 6 pm after sun set at 4.30 pm. Newspaper/Magazine is unheard of, dish tv is ubiquitous crowding the terraces.

We walked down to the war memorial erected in memory of Subedar Joginder Singh PVC. Read about the history of 1962 war for which Tawang was the center stage that we did not study in social studies syllabus at school.

We were walking to Tawang Monastery aka Galden Namgyal Lhatse, 3 km from town at 6am, temperature was zero degree Celsius. This 400 year old largest lamasery of Mahayana sect in Asia and second oldest monastery in the world (after Lhasa) has 65 residential buildings accommodating more than 500 Lamas. The most imposing building is the assembly hall called Dukhang, which houses a richly gilded idol of a seated Buddha 26 feet high in the rear chamber.

There is a much hyped cable car from Tawang Monastery to Gyanggong Anigompa which is no more functional. Gyanggong Anigompa is visible from Tawang Monastery which is under same administration and 50 Buddhist nuns get provision from here. As the cable car is not operational we learnt that the only way to visit Gyanggong Anigompa is to hike up the mountain. The challenging trail starts from the monastery road and passes by a Chorten, after a while follow the water pipes trudging up the mountain. There is a road under construction but the bridge across the river in the deep intervening valley might not get completed soon. Take a diversion and hike up another 15 minutes to go down to the gushing river. After having the packed momos and the sweet river water for breakfast, we crossed the wooden bridge to climb up the next mountain. A very rewarding hike and you can enjoy deep solitude at Gyanggong Anigompa.


Yuten, the lone nun who was at the Gompa welcomed us and poured her motherly affection by giving us tea, apple, biscuits and savouries at the main kitchen. She spoke little Hindi and ensured we took the extra apples with us. Thukje Chueling Anigompa aka Brama Dung Chung Anigompa is another two hours walk from here. Follow the concrete steps, you will reach the road after a blood pumping 45 min walk. The local worker Norbu and his loyal dog Kallu were guiding us to the road. Following the road downwards watching the yak/dzo herds, we reached the oldest Anigompa in Tawang housing 45 nuns. The girls join the nunnery on their own and there is no social pressure or tradition making it compulsory. After they complete the monastic studies, they go to South India to study arithmetic, English, Hindi etc. Unlik the monks, they rarely leave nunneries after becoming nuns.

Thukje Chueling Anigompa is 9 km by road from Tawang town. There is a short cut through defence land to Tawang monastery by foot. A local person offered us a ride back to the town without expecting any money, though we insisted on paying. The love shown by the locals and nuns to total strangers like us is the best fuel for our trip.

Thu-Che-Chey ( thank you in Monpa language).

We took a touristy route to appreciate the natural beauty of Tawang Himalayas. The route is Maratha Ground (12400ft)-Nagula-Y junction (14615 ft)-Sangesur lake, which will take two hours thirty minutes. Better hire a taxi, try to get a local driver and if he was in the army, even better. Sumo will cost 3500 and smaller cars 3000. We got a deal with Kalsang Yeshi (9402934375) who showed up at 6am sharp. There are more than a dozen lakes of various sizes on this route, the most remarkable are P.T.Tso (Pankang Teng Tso), Kyo Tso and Sangesur lake.

The roads are horrible with no trace of tarmac, heavily used by army vehicles. There are check posts on the way and diversion to Bum La is from Y junction. Enjoy a hot cuppa at Y junction cafe. The Sikh Shrine after Y junction is almost at 15000 ft altitude as per the soldiers. Walked up the head spinning concrete steps gasping for oxygen along the friendly soldiers, to admire this inter faith construction in memory of Guru Nanak, who visited Tibet via Arunachal. There are 108 lakes from Sela to the Tibetan border - Kalsang informed us. Sangesur lake is 42 km from town, which emerged during a 1950 earthquake. Maintained by army there is a cafe at this vast lake surrounded by a footpath to walk around the lake. You can enjoy snow capped mountain leaks both in India and China on this mountain hopping route. Keep hydrated as AMS can hit you above 13000 ft. Kalsang shared his stories from his service with SFF (Special Frontier Force), posted at Ladakh while having chow and coffee at Y junction cafe. During heavy winter this route may not be advisable as there is frost and ice as early as mid October. Despite bad roads and pricey transport this route is an essential evil to get a glimpse of the wet lands of Arunachal.

As it was the last day of Puja at Tawang monastery, men and women thronged the town and the monastery road in the traditional dress looking their best. Like any other religious place, premises of monastery was surrounded by vendors and traffic snarls. After a while we took the trail to Urgelling Gompa which is 5km from Tawang town by road on Tezpur-Bomdila road, divert at the Maruti workshop. Lost and found many times, asking people on the way we finally managed to reach Urgelling Gompa by foot but found it closed as the monks have gone to the Puja. Being the birth place of 6th Dalai Lama and 14th Dalai Lama's hide out on his exile to India, this Gompa has a special importance in the life line of Buddhism. Locals appreciate a lot when you are on foot and go out of their way to help you, a few local women who were working at a road construction site offered us part of their lunch and we couldn't say no to them accepting an apple. They exclaim when they hear that we are from Kerala, a far away land for them.  Though we were exasperated, we took the short trail back to the town which was meant to be covered in 30 min. Endless concrete steps and wide open grounds made our hike really tough and took almost an hour. Crashing down at Hotel, after lunch we made our mind to take one full day rest to recover while the town is gearing up for Tawang festival (Oct 26-30) during Durga Puja holidays.

Bomdila- ethnographic quarters

Bomdila is the headquarters of West Kameng district and an obligatory stop on the way to Tawang, 165 km from Tezpur. We checked-in at Hotel La ( Opp.Buddha Stadium, Bomdila Tel 03782 223344, L.M.Hazarika: 94028 04714, email: lahotel3@gmail.com, s/d 250/350 with shared bathroom) an ideal accommodation for a backpacker next to the transport hub. Newly built deluxe rooms have heater, TV and geyser d/tr 1200/1400 and the best value is the semi deluxe double room (600, squat toilet, bucket shower). The restaurant at the basement provide good food and there is ample car parking space. The owner Tashi Tsering and his friendly staff are really helpful and make you feel at home. 

Gontse Gaden Rabgye-ling Monastery better known as Bomdila Monastery houses 250 students and is 15 min by foot. The old monastery building is next to SDV school and mostly closed. There is an annual festival at this monastery just before Deepavali (Diwali) and a highly choreographed sacred dance (Chham) lasting for 3 days accompanied by beating drums and cymbals, blowing huge telescopic horns and clarinets. This year it happens from Nov 6th. 

The two room district museum outlines various artifacts of Arunachal and gives an insight about the different tribes. For an evening stroll walk to the garden opposite to Hotel La rotating the prayer wheels. The next door Xerox shop is handled by Nima, who spent 12 years of monastic studies in Karnataka. Did you know? there is a monastery in Hubli where 2000 students study to be monks. 

Next morning Tashi and wife invited us to have breakfast with them, dishing up local delicacies and spicy chutney 'Gokpa' and butter-tea suja were the highlights. After a long conversation they took us for a tour to the nearby village and government owned Helipad, a few kilometers away overlooking Bomdila township and Rupa village. Tashi is very active with community development programs and we shared the popular concept of homestay. He decided to give it a try at Bomdila, to boost the local economy. In a few years, the bypass road will be completed and you may not go through Bomdila town to go to Tawang. Tashi mentioned that the civic sense is at all times low, proven by the shattered liquor bottles at the Helipad. 

There are many tiny hamlets and gompas around Bomdila for day hikes. For multi day hikes, contact Mr. Tsering Wange, Himalayan Holiday at New Bazar Line, Bomdila (Tel 03782 222017, 9436045063/9436888905 himalay-holidays@usa.net). Cabbage is one of the major agriculture produce apart from khe potatoes, chillies, bitter brinjals and corn. High mountain and dense forest have prevented intercommunication between tribes, isolation has led to over 26 major tribes with several dialects. Hindi has been the major language spoken all over Arunachal and medium of education. Bomdila is cold throughout the year,winter with snowfall; carry thermal wear. 

Itanagar: Socio-Cultural Capital of Arunachal Pradesh

14 hours from Shillong by overnight APST (Arunachal Pradesh State Transport) bus was not so tiring with frequent stops for food and personal ablutions. Unlike the private services ST buses ply slow and safe on this route – one of the busiest in Northeast – Shillong-Nafaon-Tezpur-Bandewara-Itanagar. Unless you have plans to visit other places in Arunachal than Tawang, you don’t need to come to Itanagar which is the main hub for ST buses to other parts of Arunachal. At the Secretariat you can obtain ILP to any part of Arunachal Pradesh especially the newly opened circuits namely Mechuka, Tuting. From Zero Point to Ganga market there is a dozen hotels of varying tariff. After shopping around for a while we settled at Hotel Alpine (Ganga Market, dbl 550, Tel 0360 221498), cheapest and closest to APST bus station and sumo counters. Next door was Kerala Bhawan, a restaurant run by Mohan and Biju hailing from Kayamkulam who were very helpful to provide rich information. 3 rooms will be ready for accommodation at Kerala Bhawan (dbl 600, Tel 96159 28200/03) by Dec 2012. Hotel Blue Pine (dbl 800-1500, Tel 0360 2211118) is more upmarket and has air conditioned rooms.

We contacted Sabu Kurien whom I had met on my way to NE in the train two years back. Very rarely people who meet on the train make it a point to meet again – Sabu told me this when we met at the gate of NERIST, Nirjuli 15 km away from Itanagar. Sabu and wife welcomed us with a sumptuous lunch despite his busy preparation for convocation at NERIST. People who genuinely welcome just an acquaintance with such a warm heart is a rare creed. Sabu gave us a tour around 600 acre campus and told us the stories from his 27 years of life in Arunachal. The river behind NERIST between Nirjuli and Doimukh is connected by a new motorable bridge and the old hanging bridge is no more functional. There used to be a narrow gauge from New Bongaigaon (Assam) to Doimukh and the train called Arunachal Express – was used earlier to reach Itanagar using ferry service across the river. This track is under conversion to broad gauge for the last many years.

Siddhartha Vihara Buddhist Monastery is 10 min walk uphill from Zero Point. The premises lack the tranquil ambience typical at Gompas, thanks to the youngsters freaking out on the winding road and at the parking lot. State museum seem to be closed.We saw many old local men sporting interesting Hornbill headgear and long swords. Ganga market had many shops lined up with food for both carnivores and herbivores. Garbage management seems to be non-existent, visual and olfactory effect is everywhere in the town. There are many shared auto rickshaws (Rs.10) and open sumos (Rs.20) plying between Itanagar and Nirjuli apart from the buses to Banderwara and Tezpur.

There are buses from APST bus station to Along (330, 6am, 2.30pm), Guwahati (290, 6am) Bomdila (290, 6am); double check the availability and timing at the bus station as they are not reliable. There is an early morning 5am Sumo service to Guwahati Airport for Rs.1500. Private operators run Sumos and buses to different places in Arunachal. We booked our ticket to Bomdila starting at 5pm (Rs.390, 12hrs, Yatayat tours and travels, Ganga market Tel 0360 2292839) reaching next morning, runs via Banderwara-Gophur-Tezpur-Balukpong (check post) – Bomdila. Sometimes the overnight vehicles may halt at check post until 4am due to security reasons, normally the vehicles from Tezpur run only during day.  Shorter and easier route to Tawang from Guwahati is to get ILP from Guwahati or Tezpur DC office, Parvatinagar Tel 03712 220241. For more details on ILP to Arunachal click here.

Shillong- Tourism Capital of Northeast

Guwahati "super fast" express was 4 hours late and we reached Guwahati by 12 noon. Had a booking at Ananda Lodge (MN Rd, 03612544832 dbl Rs.250) but the ongoing book fair made all the rooms occupied. Sweaty Guwahati did not make us stay further. We headed to Shillong taking a share sumo (Rs.150, 4 hrs), occasional 4 lane road construction on the GS road and tree falling on the road delayed us by 30 min. We darted to Aaron's (9863115302) shop,sells hiking and fishing gear ( DD Laloo & Co. U Tirot Sing Syiem Rd, Tel: 0364 - 2502420, email: xsvadventures@gmail.com) organizes off beat activities for students and corporates. After exchanging stories of last 2 years, we checked-in at Hotel Embassy (AC Lane, near Assam Studio, GS Road, dbl Rs.650). Rooms could be kept more clean for the price we pay. Shoddy toilet and metal tasting water are deterring but cheapest in the central area. Hotel Koshi Niwas (Hira Market, Thana Rd, Police Bazar, Tel: 0364 - 2500009, 9774040289, dbl Rs.700) is not so easy to find but best value for money. If you can stand the arrogance of the management, Earl Home Holiday (Oakland road, left turn from HDFC ATM, Tel: 0364-2228614, dbl Rs 350-3000) is a nice hotel with vast car parking area, the old hotel is the typical tin sheet roofed hill station building. Relishing the street food at Center Point (chowmein Rs.10, 3 eggs Rs.20) we called it a day, after travelling for 4 days from Cochin.

Called up HVK and updated about the status. After a quick breakfast at Gupta Restaurant in the Police Bazar next to U.P.Sweet Meat, we hopped on to supplementary transport service of Shillong ( TATA MAGIC) to Mawlai from Bara Bazar to visit Don Bosco Museum (Rs.60 admn fee) - the best place to start an expedition in Northeast. A thorough tour explaining the culture and tradition of Northeast, will take two hours and the view of sprawling Shillong city and outskirts from the sky walk on top of this seven storied building is spectacular. DBCIC (9.30a.m - 5.30p.m, Mon-Sat  1.30p.m-5.30p.m, Sunday). The next door Homely Hut restaurant offers mouth watering soups and delicious fried rice/chowmein (Rs 70).

Take any taxi  or bus heading to Guwahati and get down at Orchid Lake Resort at Bara Pani, 15 km from Shillong. Nehru Park (Rs.10) is close by and Water Sports Complex is 10 min walk with an admission fee of Rs.20 and boating extra. A good location to see the magnitude of Umiam Lake and magical Lumpondeng Island at a far distance. You get a great view from the bund next to the diversion to Airport without paying any admission fee. A few boys jumping from the bridge to the river and swimming back took us back to our childhood days.

Shillong comes to a virtual stand still on a Sunday with most of the shops closed and very few transport services, as locals go to church. Spend some time at well kept Ward's Lake and visit the architecturally magnificent wooden churches at the center of Shillong city to get over a lazy Sunday. All Saints Cathedral is the most remarkable for the it's wooden beams and stained glass paintings. The bells imported from England behind the church and the electrical ceramic switches and wiring inside the church take you back in time.

Finding Arunachal Deputy Commissioner's office, Old Arunachal Secretariat building (ITBP NE Head Quarters) near Anjalee petrol pump was not effortless. ILPs (Inner Line Permit) for Bomdila-Tawang circuit and Itanagar-Ziro-Along were obtained separately. Rs.25 for each permit and two passport size photographs along ID proof photocopies. Permits are given on same day unlike Arunachal House at Dispur where it takes two days to get the permit. Booked bus tickets to Itanagar Rs.380 at the tiny counter behind Old AP Secretariat building. Surprisingly the bus driver was a Keralite. Last row seats got moved to the very first row, Megha was saying all thanks to MMTP (Malyali-Malyali-Transfer-Protocol).  A truckload of vegetables was loaded on top of the bus-an indication that vegetarian food will be more expensive at Itanagar compared to Shillong. One of our co-passengers was a cute puppy. Bedford buses plying inside the city two years back gave way to swanky JNNRUM  city buses. Accommodation prices have been hiked up despite a reduction in luxury tax from 20% to 10%.Transport is cheap if you stick to state transport buses and TATA Magic, private shared taxi charges are more than double.Food is dirt cheap at small eateries and on the street. 

Jobless Backpacker(s)

That's how I introduced myself to Megha when I met her two years back. Jobless is a state of freedom and a good state of mind provided we are prepared for it. Backpacking is a way of life rather than a way of travel. We learn to live with the basic minimum and appreciate even little creature comforts. Travel without a planned return date - there is a special thrill in that. We were planning to do this after a few years, but we learned from others health is the biggest wealth for such a trip. Luxury of time is definitely an advantage too. We start by train (of course on a tatkal ticket) on Oct  2nd from Cochin to Guwahati to explore the Northeast states in the next 3 months. ERS - GHY Tatkal ticket Rs.4144/- for 2 in 3A, distance - 3332 km.

Preparing for this trip - financial and physical fitness - was our single goal in the last two years. Dreams come true if you chase them with persistence. We intend to update this blog as and when access to an internet cafe is available. Stay tuned to know what happens to a couple gone crazy about traveling.

Kudremukha to Kainakary via Kashmir

This road trip was through some of the toughest terrains and roads which are not existing in the maps/GPS in Kashmir. If you want to drive your own vehicle, check out the details from HVK and Lalu KS at Team BHP.

Planning for a trip sounds a cliché; we are ready to roll on at any given motivation. That is what happened on Jul 20th when HV Kumar was chatting about his 'unplanned' Kashmir trip on a Friday evening. Cancelling our train tickets to Alleppey and booking the tickets to Delhi to catch up with him on Sunday afternoon was impulsive. After a few hours , we were on Sugama Travels night bus from Kalasa to Bangalore for the Sunday morning flight. Though flights don't come in our backpacking trips, it was inevitable to reach Delhi on time to board HV's Scorpio.  

To reach Bangalore Airport by late night for an early morning flight, there are Vayu Vajra (Volvo) services up to 1 a.m. from Jayanagar 4th block. Ditching the Indian Railways, we headed to BIAL and boarded Indigo flight at 6 a.m and reached balmy Delhi airport at 9 a.m. Riding the convenient and progressive metro train to Saket, we thoroughly enjoyed hospitality of my maternal uncle Saji's family. After lunch, our meeting point was New Delhi Railway Station at 3pm with Lalu and HVK- never met both of them in person but well known through social media. HVK had been a great help during my solo Northeast trip in 2010. The team set in with ease and good spirit in no time; after all strangers are friends who never met. 

Delhi
We set out from Delhi City at 4pm and after spending an hour at Sonipet fixing the oil dipstick of Scorpio, we were cruising on the highways through the northern states which I had studied in Social Science classes via Panipat-Karnal-Kurukshetra-Ambala-Ludhiana-Jalandhar-Pathankot and then heading to Jammu on NH 1A. Punjabi Dhabas are ubiquitous on Indian Highways; but relishing a meal at a dhaba in Punjab is a different experience. There are many McDonalds and fancy air conditioned dhabas  on these highways catering to the taste buds of cosmopolitan Delhites. We enjoyed our roti/chana/daal/lassi along vest-dhoti clad drivers at an authentic dhaba sitting cross -legged on a cot coiled with coir . Though we were stopped by PB and JK police displaying their flash lights on our face at the check posts, after spelling our names without a pause, they let us go.

Jammu

Apart from being the center stage of Indo-Pak political issues, communal  issues surface between nationalist Muslims from Kashmir valley and Hindus in Jammu. Checking the political situation at Jammu for bandhs and curfews is mandatory.

Jammu is 14hours from Delhi by Shalimar Express and by 2017 there will be a railway track to Srinagar crossing the world's highest rail-bridge. . We reached Jammu at wee hours of the day and met with the fifth member of our team- Rohit and his Tata Safari. We used the room he was staying at Hotel Jammu Residency (dbl Rs 600-3500) run by JKTDC (www.jktdc.co.in, Tel: 0191-2549065, Mob: 9419212451). After a shower, leaving humid and hot Jammu at the earliest was beneficial not to get lost in the floods of 'Yatri' (pilgrims) to Amarnath. After  afew hours of winding roads  we are at Patnitop JKTDC complex for breakfast. Hotel Maple (dbl Rs 1000, JKTDC) is a an ideal stay at Patnitop.

Sanasar

Our next destination was the Sanasar,  a tranquil valley 20km from Patnitop edged deep within the mountains where life slots to a slower pace. The green  meadows and mud houses of this quaint valley had been promoted to our top-shelf destination. There are plenty of buses from Jammu to Patnitop, but you may hire a taxi to Sanasar. Ashiana Guest House and JKTDC's Hotel Alpine (dbl Rs 800, hut Rs 1500) are accommodations at Sanasar; where spending two days is recommended. Horse rides are offered by the local boys around the valley which looks like a golf course with a pond at the center. After spending a few hours at Sanasar, reached Kishtwar via Batote-Doda cruising through the good roads overlooking the murky Chenab river amidst the mountains with scanty vegetations and active mining sites. We stayed at JKTDC hotel but it is not recommended, Hotel Kishtwar (dbl Rs 700-1500 Paddar Road, Zalna Tel 9797319797) is the best option; though the restaurant doesn't offer anything local. Rajma/rice/roti is the staple diet in this region if you head to a local restaurant. There are buses to bustling town of Kishtwar from Jammu but going further is possible only by local shared taxis.

Sach Pass

Going through the roads which are built and opened this year, the next day's drive can be described as the most challenging but scenic. We were safe in HVK's experienced hands through water crossings, slushy roads, water falls and steep climbs. Left at daybreak from Kishtwar taking Paddar road via  Sanskari-Karthai etc to Pangi Valley in Himachal. A newly built Buddhist Goemba was a pleasant surprise in this region. Our lunch stop was at young and dynamic Ravikanth's homely restaurant -pursuing his graduation at Jammu-let us pluck a few apples from the orchards. Crossing a few villages, apricot and apple trees lined roads, we trudged to J&K - HP border check post to Khillar in Himachal.  By this time, we had stocked two or three stones inside the vehicle and was ready to engage them on short notice to prevent the Scorpio from sliding back; learned from the situation Rohit faced while tackling a steep climb. Bhootground- named so because of the fatal avalanches  -was just gray. First time experience for Megha and I- thos huge glaciers- famous with Global Climate Change. At 4390m, Sach Pass welcomed us with  glacier walls on both sides of the road but no snow on the road. Appreciating hot tea at a small tea shop and entering our credentials at the check post, we spent some time at one of the highest passes in India. After crossing Satrundi check post, chasing a cow for almost for 15min, we reached the bucolic village Bairavgarh in Chamba valley. For the night's halt we could find basic and clean Mannat Home Stay (V.P.O Bairagarh, Tehsil Churah, Chamba, H.P, Tel: 94590 63244, 88954 33940, 985777 93722; dbl Rs 700 meals Rs 100). Rakesh Thakur arranges guided treks around these serene locations. Having shower in ice cold water at such locations is an electrifying experience- a way of acclimatization. None of us were hit by AMS as our hydration was frequent, piss stops as well.

Dead End at ITBP check post

The next morning was amazing to see the rain drenched village, thanks to the downpour in the night. Prosperous Tissa  Valley was lit brightly by the crepuscular rays. Roads were wide and the surface tarred; after breakfast our destination was Badarwah - a big town in Pir Panjal Range. After wandering through the winding roads amidst green meadows sighting herds of sheep and nomadic shepherds of Churah Valley, we reached Langera- where the public buses stop service. Another 10km further, we found a closed barricade of ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Boder Police) and learned that we have hit a dead end from where trekking with prior permission is  the only way to reach Badarwah. ITBP folks treated us with hot chai and we spent some time with them chit-chatting about the poor condition of the road work.

tatkalticket.in 

Sanasar

We got back to the main roads at Sundala- we drove along the Ravi River, clearing the confusion over the roads. Crossing a dams site in Himachal, we were back in J&K in a while. At a tricky hairpin bend, a poor mountain goat was run over by our vehicle and got stuck under. The shepherd panicked but did not cost money or a verbal abuse. I was impressed with the ribs of the goat withstanding more than 2 tons of Scorpio with luggage and passengers. If this happens in God's own country, devil's own people will cause deep hole in our pocket followed by a hartal next day. Crossing  a small but busy town Bani and the corn fields, we climbed the mountains to Sarthal- a hamlet where just a few tea shops and a temple situated. Surprisingly a large guest house was available for accommodation, but no water in the toilets; but the location was worth tolerating the filthy toilets. Tea shop owner was helpful and prepared dinner for us with a dash of stories with locals about conflicts and life in mountains. Next day morning, we were near the tiny stream with crystal clear water watching unflustered life of shepherds staying in mud houses at this paradise on earth where time stands still. Watching the Kashmiri sheep and touch and feel of their skin was a charming experience.  If you are lucky to find the caretaker of the guest house, you can stay here. Nalhati Guest House( Vinod Kumar Mob: 9858623638, dbl Rs500) on the way to Badarwah is another option which offers cozy rooms and food.  

Back to Kishtwar

Going through Chattargilla Pass through the poplar edged roads, we headed to Badarwah. Incessant drizzling did not provide any great views but the roads were not so bad with occasional landslides and under construction zones. Badarwah is a lively city with transport connectivity and banks. Brunch and data backup, then we headed to a nearby tourist location by the name Jai. Igloo look-alike studio apartments at these green pastures were something new -contact Anjil Kotwal (09419824219, 09858286176 Rs 1500) for a stay at Jai -where Snow Festival is hosted annually. Returning to Badarwah, we drove to Kishtwar via Doda.We stayed at Hotel Kishtwar overlooking the well lit-up modern prison, but dinner at the restaurant did not go well with my intestines.

Srinagar

At 6 a.m we started to Srinagar- summer capital of JK via Sinthan Pass-Daksum-Kokernag-Anantnag-Pampore. Relished the national food of India - Maggi Noodles -our breakfast at Sintan Pass (3785m), check post was noticebaly absent. Much awaited flat tire happened to Scorpio and we got the spare wheel fixed in no time. After a while the terrain changes to more alluvial plains and the houses get bigger.  Rohit bid adieu on the way and it was only Scorpio going through Chinnar trees lined roads, Jhelum River close by.  HVK reminded us about the reduction in security check points. The unfinished cricket bats hung on the road side made of willow tree was interesting. Cruising through the heavy traffic we drove along the iconic Dal Lake and Mughal Gardens and the panoramic view from Shankaracharya Temple is remarkable with details from HVK. Had a luxurious Wazwan cuisine lunch at Hotel Adhoos (www.adhooshotel.com) living up to the heritage since 1920, friendly middle aged staff helped us to choose authentic dishes - Nandroo Yakhni, Hak Saag, Mirchi Mutton, Tandoor Roti. Wallet factor was Rs 1000 for four and we realized that we were missing Rohit while pulling an extra chair for him. I never saw Lalu so happy in the entire trip, relishing the mutton curry. Running after mechanics and shop owners, we got a spare wheel in next two hours. After rushing through a few gardens and driving around the entire Dal Lake, spent the night at Hotel Malik opposite to Dal Lake (dbl Rs 1400, Tel: 0194-2473672, 990619762). 

Mughal Road (Srinagar-Jammu)

The recently opened Mughal Road from Srinagar to Jammu was the last exciting chapter of our trip crossing Peer-Ki-Gali (3490m), an excellent route which drives through a dense forest with a population of red assed monkeys. Many girls going to school showed the importance given to girls' education in this region. Some parts of the road were so close to Pakistan that we got Pak FM in our car radio. We reached the sweaty Jammu and got fixed the headlight switch assembly with the help of HVK's friend Ajay Wali who insisted on treating us with a lunch. 

Amritsar

By night, we were struggling through the Punjab traffic and railway crossings to get to Amritsar for a glimpse of the Golden Temple. HVK's sense of humor made this drive even more enthralling. The volunteers at this largest Sikh temple was a humbling experience and sitting at the lake and gawping the reflections of temple till 11p.m was really relaxing.  A long all night drive to Delhi was exasperating for all of us, left us dizzy at the morning when we reached HPTDC hotel at Sonipet.

Konkan (Monsoon) Railways

Taking shared autos to border and then to Jahangir Puri, we were back to Saket for a day's rest and a nap. Keeping up the legacy of tatkal ticket, we booked one to Ernakulam and boarded Mangala Lakshadweep next morning escaping narrowly from one of the world's largest power crisis. Our train had changed to a diesel engine in Maharashtra when the power outage worsened. After 3D/2N chugging through the numerous tunnels and bridges of Konkan Railways, rain soaked Western Ghats was in alluring hues of green and I was romancing with Indian Railways. We reached home on Aug 1st, just in time to watch the preparations for Nehru Trophy boat race at Kainakary.

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” - Mark Twain

Kudremukh Peak Trek

 

Kudremukha is not there in the tourism map yet, but it is definitely a trekkers' paradise. A treasure in Western Ghats-one of the wettest places in Malnad region. Kudremukha is getting more importance now, KSRTC has started Airavat class service to Kalasa - a small town 20km before Kudremukha National Park. KIOCL (Kudremukha Iron Ore Company Limited) was once the biggest employer of this region. Later this mining company was closed due to environmental issues. When you drive through the national park you will see the remains of the erstwhile factories and staff quarters on both sides of the road.

Kalasa is the town where one should stay to get public transport or hired taxi, auto easily. Thotadur Yatri  Nivas is a well run budget hotel with rooms Rs 300-700 (Tel:08263- 274699, Mob: 094480 07014) with basic clean rooms with squat toilets and bucket shower. Hot water shower is available between 6am-8am. For a serene family home stay with authentic Malnadu vegetarian food Upasana (Tel: +91 8263 249288, Rs 2000 per day per person including meals) is the best choice for a very tranquil stay  Ask for Sukumar Shetty's house after turning left at Samse junction 8km from Kalasa town. Upasana has been renovated extensively with an artistic touch to each room. Check http://www.upasanaretreat.com for more details. Ask the host for a spot of Yoga, if you are keen.

For trekkers, there is an ideal choice at Mullodi- Rajappa's Mullodi House (Tel: 08623-249333, 9481179008, 9483983324) located at the base of Kudremukha Peak trekking trail. You can reach his house by hiring a 4WD jeep from Kalasa for Rs 500. It would be two hours walk from the main road where there is a big signboard "Trekking path to Kudremukha Peak". If you are sharing a seat with others, pay Rs 100 per seat for one trip. Rajappa will arrange forest permits for Rs  275 per head.

We started on Jan 26th at 4:30am from JP Nagar, Bangalore. NICE road from Kanakapura to Peenya and taking NH4 to Nelmangala. Turn left at Nelmangala to NH48 towards Haasan via Kunigal. Turn to Belur road at Haasan and follow NH234 via Mudigere. State Highway via Khotigehara to reach Kalasa. We reached Kalasa by 11am. After lunch and a short nap, we visited Sukumar Shetty and Leena at Upasana and they were so happy to meet 'Joseph from Kerala' after 3years. We were chatting about different topics under the sun and Sukumar is a charm to listen to his stories from life. Leena made sure we were fed coffee and snacks and later a sumptuous dinner.

 

Next day, at 6:30am we started from Yatri Nivas to Rajappa's house. After breakfast, we started trekking at 8:30am. Hire a guide, as you may get lost on this trail. Every mountain, stream, valley look alike. The trekking trail is not so wide and smooth. Rocky path may hurt your toes badly. Scorching sun can hit you -carry a sun block and hydrate yourself with water and electrolytes. Whenever we crossed a stream, we filled our water bottles with water. After crossing a multitude of valleys we reached the peak by 12noon. After having the upma packed by Rajappa's family we took rest for a while inside the forest listening to the Cicadas' music. At 6214 ft, Kudremukha (horse-face) peak overlooks Chikmagalur, Uduppi districts.

This part of Western Ghats is blessed with evergreen rainforests and wildlife is not so common. Aravind, Aditya, Nicholas trio was part of our group with the guide Keshava. He was happy that we were relatively fast enough though we took occasional breaks to relish some dry fruits and nuts. We started back at 2pm and descending was equally demanding. We spent some time gazing at the ruins of a church built by British. On the way, we met Rajappa's first wife's father with a herd of cows. He was our guide for a while as the other trio decided to stay back at the bank of a small stream on the way. We reached the base at 5:30pm and hot coffee was waiting for us. After a fitting dinner and two hours of rest, we started back to Kalasa on a 4WD jeep at 8pm.

 

Sleeping early at 9pm did not require any extra effort after a 7hours (16km) trek -one of the most difficult trek in Karnataka.  A good 8 hour sleep recuperated us from the body ache. Saturday, we spent the morning driving through Kudremukha National Park visiting Lakya dam, Gangamoola and Hanumangundi waterfalls. At 12noon, we started back to Bangalore.