The more that you read, the more things you will know. The more you learn, the more places you’ll go.
The quote is from a bookmark I bought on my recent trip to the mountain town of Mussoorie. An ardent fan of the author Ruskin Bond, a visit to Mussoorie was a must. The Himalayas of Uttarakhand are mesmerizing and mysterious at the same time in his books. His writing had created this urge to visit the places featured in his books. Another friend and a Ruskin Bond fan was excited about visiting his place. Until a few years ago, one would see him at Cambridge Book Depot, signing his books. From the locals, we heard that he has now shifted to Dehra Dun. For us, it was just exciting to see the places right in front of us, as if they just came out of the pages of the books. It was mandatory that I read Roads to Mussoorie while there. It was surreal and thrilling, at the same time visiting most of the places in and around Mussoorie that appear in his books. Though not physically signed, we can buy the books with his digital signature. It is also remarkable that we visited his home the year he turns 90!
The planning began in February. We lost no time to book flights and stay, as these hill stations get crowded during the summer vacation season. Though the flight was direct to Dehra Dun, almost the whole day was lost in travelling both ways. We got 3.5 days, and the last day happened to be the elections there (which we didn’t know when we planned our trip). The stay was booked at an Airbnb in Jharipani, 8km before the main Mall Road in Mussoorie. Located in a peaceful location overlooking the Doon Valley, the cottage is just the perfect place for those looking for a relaxing and calm stay away from the hubbub of the touristy Mussoorie town. The Airbnb we stayed in is part of the Kamal Cottages. At one point, this area belonged to the Nepal Royal Family. After the king’s time, his children sold most of the land that belonged to them. Kamal Cottages is one of the parts. A small temple on the premises houses varied Hindu gods, and a small park surrounds it. The views are spectacular from every corner of the place. Every bend of the road delights you with an enchanting view.
The small town of Jharipani boasts a waterfall, which is not touristic and hikes around the area aplenty. A concrete road is in the making towards the Jharipani waterfall. We met a few young guys from Saharanpur who had come on their motorcycles 80% of the route and walked the rest of the trail. Sceptical about there being any water in this summer season, the waterfall surprised us with gushing water. The last stretch to reach the waterfall is narrow. Be cautious, and it is worth the effort. It is situated in a serene place covered by forest on all sides.
Spend an evening strolling on Mall Road, shops selling warm winter apparel and cafes offering food to satiate the food preferences of everyone. From local cuisine to gourmet food, you can have it all -the barbecued corn or popcorn from the roadside (perfect companion for the cold evening chill). The ropeway to the Gunhill top is another attraction in the heart of this road. I was excited as this was my first time riding a cable car. The view from here is majestic, the Himalayan mountain ranges on one side and the town of Mussoorie on the other. Unfortunately, we reached there after sun-down. Other than the viewpoint, some shops (most of them) offer photos in traditional Uttarakhand attire. Sipping a hot ginger from a restaurant, we headed back towards the cable car and down we came to the Mall Road. Though the rule says no traffic is allowed on Mall Road, we came across locals (on their scooters) causing havoc (to pedestrians) by constantly honking and riding rashly. One end of the road hosts Picture Palace, now closed, which used to be a cinema hall and the other Library, known as Library Chowk.
Savoy Hotel |
Landour is a cantonment area, further upward after Mussoorie. This is where Ruskin Bond’s home is. An evening was spent in Landour walking around the streets, admiring the views and the old colonial-style architecture. The famous Landour Bakehouse bakes a delicious spread of croissants, brownies, and sandwiches. Their cheesy garlic croissant was finger-licking good, and I had a ginger lemon honey tea to wash it down. The chilly summer evening was a perfect setting for this supper, and the bakehouse has unique furniture (reused sewing machines) for the table. The backdrop for the bakehouse is spectacular, covered with pine and oak trees.
A privately maintained/preserved nature park is the Jhabarkhet Nature Reserve. They charge 450/- per person (including GST), and you can spend the whole day inside the reserve, though camping is not allowed. They provide a paper map with multiple trail options and information about the reserve. The trails are very well marked, and one can easily find their way inside this nature reserve. For a guide, they insist on booking the slot ahead, who have more knowledge about the flora and fauna of the area. On a clear day, the Himalayas are visible to the naked eye, and we were lucky to have been on the hike on one such day. Some of the mountain ranges had received a fresh snowfall the previous night, and the white snow-capped mountains were a treat to the eye and made me stand dumbstruck there for many minutes.
The Hills-E-Ishq Café (also a restaurant) close to the Jhabarkhet Nature Reserve dishes up local dishes and beverages. Their Gharwali thali is a must-try that includes all the delicacies of the traditional cuisine specific to this area of the Himalayas (the Garhwal Himalayas). As the rhododendrons were in season, they had the juice/soda of these flowers, which was very tasty and aided in digesting the heavy spread of the meal. The café is run by an enthusiastic local lady genuinely interested in what she does. Appreciate her effort in saving the tradition and serving the local traditional food by visiting the cafe when in the area.
Another privately run place (hosted by the couple – Kavitha and Shukla), the SOHAM Himalayan Centre, is a fascinating museum displaying varied items related / belonging to the history, culture and geography of these mountains. This should ideally be the first place to begin the journey. You learn about the history and culture of the place, which will help you to appreciate the rest of the trip better. Having a PhD in Painting, the host, Mrs Kavitha, is highly knowledgeable and skilled at narrating stories. This multistoried museum houses everything from old scriptures to coin collection, photographs to paintings, locally used utensils to pieces of architecture and the like. It is no wonder that this region is rich in culture and traditions. Many religious places like Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Rishikesh, to name a few, are part of this state. It is fascinating how the culture and local practices still thrive to keep the rich historical and mythological tales alive. They have a meagre Rs.100/- for entry fee. Support the cause of preserving the traditions, history and culture of the Himalayas by visiting the centre.
This was my first time in Uttarakhand, and I can’t wait to explore the other Himalayan places in the state. The well-laid roads from Dehradun airport to Mussoorie make travel easy and hassle-free. The Flybus by KSRTC is the best way to get to KIAL from Mysore. They keep up with the timings. They reached the airport earlier than the expected time of arrival when I went. The buses are comfortable, and experienced drivers make it a smooth ride.
The best souvenir to remember a trip (in my opinion) is a postcard of the place. I posted one from the Mussoorie post office, and it was an incredible feeling when I received it at my doorstep. Heartfelt thanks to my close friend and her mom who agreed to tag me along on this trip!
Link to more photos from the trip: Photos
Postcard that made it from Mussoorie to Mysore |