Maiden Monsoon Ride

Riding bike in the Western Ghats has been on my bucket list for long. Now that I have learnt riding a geared motorcycle it was beyond thrilling sensation when I rode our Duke in the Western Ghats.

On a fine Friday evening, with mild drizzle in Bangalore, we set out towards Hassan - our first stop - en route Kalasa. Patches of rain kept the road and our mind fresh. Following morning, heavy rain accompanied us all the way to Kalasa. It was after a very long time we experienced the saying "it's raining cats and dogs". Our riding gear kept us warm and thanks to Decathlon rain gear we were dry.

Roads in Chickmagalur district are in their best condition ever. The age old, potholed, broken roads gave way to fully  tarred smooth tarmac. The lush green scenery can be enjoyed instead of gluing your eyes on the road. With the heavy rains there are streams at every corner and fallen trees are very common.

Our route was Bangalore-Nelamangala-Channarayapatna-Hassan-Belur(Left turn)-Jannapura-Mudigere-Kottigehara(Right)-Balur(Left)-Kelagur-Hirebyle-Kalasa. 340km in total.

On day 2, we were riding through Kudremukha NP, to erstwhile  KIOCL township in torrential rains. A detour from Samse will take you towards Elaneeru Waterfalls.

And Day 3,  Kalasa-Balehole-Magundi route. There is a diversion on this route to Agumbe/Sringeri - which is still a potholed road. From Magundi, the road leads to Balur - alternate route to reach Kottigehara from Kalasa. There is  also a shorter route Haluvalli- Horanadu road to reach Horanadu Temple.

Instead of coming back through the same route to Hassan, we turned right at Jannapura towards Sakleshpura. This road is fantastic - both the tarmac and lush green scenery.  After Sakleshpura, the roads are in pretty bad condition until Hassan. Road widening work is in progress from Hassan to Sakleshpura.

So, our return route was Kalasa-Kelagur-Balur-Kottigehara-Jannapura-Sakleshpura-Hassan-Bangalore. 350km -7hrs of leisure riding.

Due to heavy construction at Shiradi ghats on Bangalore-Mangalore national highway, there is a detour through Belur- Mudigere-Kottigehara-Charmadi. So, there was heavy traffic on this route until Kottigehara.

Quick facts:

Location: Kalasa is 340km from Bangalore and Kudremukha is 20km from Kalasa.  Horanadu, Sringeri, Agumbe can be reached from here.

When to visit: October to March is the best time. During monsoon, life becomes different at Kalasa. If you love rains, that is the best time.

Where to stay: Thottadur Yatri Nivas (at Kalasa) is for the budget traveller. Central, clean and basic. Rs 750 for dbl. Tel: 08263274699

What to carry: Some winter wear and trekking gear. A torch and umbrella will be handy. Always be ready with change of clothes. Waterfalls are tempting.

Food:  There are a few places for food  on Belur-Kottigehara route. Malnad Café dishes up authentic Malnad food with pipping hot coffee. At Kalasa, you will find basic meals at the restaurant next to Yatri Nivas.

  

Precautions: Salt, tobacco, Odomos etc for preventing leeches. Turmeric powder or turmeric oil to stop bleeding and itching if you are bitten by a leech.

Cash/ATM: Please carry liquid cash on this route, there was no power at Kalasa for 4days. Expect ATMs not to work and petrol pumps might need cash payment.

Going South welcoming monsoon

After a three months break to meet life’s expectations, we set out on a Wednesday to the capital city Thiruvananthapuram expecting The South-West monsoon to arrive on time. Our first destination was Kazhakkoottam to visit St. Xavier’s College, Thumba. Staying at Royal Lodge (Near A.J. Hospital, Kazhakkoottam, Tel 9388109963, dbl Rs 400) was the best option. I was in a Jesuit seminary on the same campus where St. Xavier’s is located. Going to the seminary after 20 years with Megha is akin to being at the crossroads of two parallel paths in life. The transport to the coastal area is very limited as it was in 1993. HVK Sir was there to help, his friend Rajanish met us at Kazhakkoottam and dropped right inside the 80acre campus. I gave Megha a tour of the campus which has not changed after 20 years. I met Biju Joy from my batch in 1993 and we talked for a while reflecting on our past life. He gave me the contact details of other three priests at Loyola College whom we met next day. Sijith hosted us for dinner the same night; I was impressed with his techie articles in Mathrubhumi .

The monsoon has not yet arrived and our fears grew about a late or missing monsoon. Going a little south to the coastal area was our next idea, so we visited Kovalam in the evening and the grey clouds looked promising. Catching up with the classmates from CUSAT was next in agenda. Deepak, Kunju, Jishin and Nevin; evocative memories of student life! Jishin did not want me to go looking for a lodge. We stayed with him playing with Mishal and Mia and relishing superb meals. A German movie- Blue Ocean- at Goethe Zentrum next to University of Kerala was indeed a good idea to spend the evening. Though Jishin did not come with us, he gave us a few names to visit in Kanyakumari district – Thottippalam, Thripparippu, Chitharal. These exotic names attracted Nevin and Anu to join us on a day tour with Ian- his 18 month old son.

If you are staying close to TechnoPark, you can take the road to Kovalam- Vizhinjam- Poovar to reach TN border at Marthandam. Though this route is longer, it is worth to avoid the city traffic through Balaramapuram-Neyyattinkara-Parassala. If you are taking a bus, frequent TN buses ply to Nagercoil. From Thampanoor bus station. Get off at Thuckalay to visit Padmanabhapuram Palace which is 15min on foot. Hotel Chitra at Marthandam is a good vegetarian option for a tasty lunch and they run a hotel at Nagercoil.

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Padmanabhapuram Palace, 64km from the capital, is in Tamil Nadu but managed by KTDC (04651-250255; admn Rs 35; 9am-1pm/2-4:30pm; Monday holiday). Parking fee is a hefty Rs 50 for parking on the roadside. Asia’s largest wooden palace complex built in 17^th century by Iravi Iravi Varma Kulasekhara Perumal consists of 14 different palaces built by the Travancore rulers. King Marthanda Varma dedicated the kingdom to his family deity Padmanabha, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, hence the name Padmanabhapuram – city of Lord Padmanabha- was known as Southern Travancore. The clock at the clock tower in the palace is 300 year old. Time stands still here! Literally...the clock is dead at 3:25!! Glorious years of princely rulers and their indulgence in luxury are brandished with teak and granite structures decorated with Chinese, Belgian artefacts. Modern civilisation is visible with the presence of squat toilets with septic tanks adjacent to the bedrooms. After 1950s, the palace became part of Madras State (Tamil Nadu). 

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Mathoor Hanging Bridge aka Thottippalam is a flume (open  aqua duct) connecting two gargantuan mountains across Pahrali river (also called Parazhiyar) for irrigation purpose; erected on 28 concrete pillars measuring up to 115ft height. Walking across this bridge gives you a sweeping view of the mountains and green expanse. 15km away from the Palace, this tourist attraction is easily accessible by road. From Thuckalay or Kulasekaram you can reach the top of the bridge. The road to the bottom of the bridge was in a bad state. Twenty-eight huge pillars shoulder the bridge. The then Chief Minister, K. Kamaraj, ordered construction of the bridge as a drought relief measure and for development of agriculture activities.

Kulasekharam: Named after Iravi Iravi Varma Kulasekhara Perumal, this area is very similar to Kottayam district in Kerala with lots of rubber plantations. Many Keralites migrated to this area for farming. More than one medical college and many churches are present. Thriparappu Waterfalls is a major tourist attraction in this route where crowds come and take a dip; though we did not find it very impressive.

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Chitharal Jain Temple: At a tiny village in Kuzhithurai town, Chitaral is accessible via  Arumanai road from Marthandam. At Marthandam, turn left to reach Attoor and then left again. Ask locals for ‘malai kovil' (rock temple) in local parlance, and they speak in Malayalam and Tamil; in a seamless blending of languages and culture. A short hike through the wide cobbled path takes you to the top of the hill at the cave temple entry point. The hill was sacred to the Jaina ascetics of the 5^th century A.D. Formed by a cluster of rocks there is a natural cave with a tiny pond at the west. There are several carvings, prominently Mahavira Tirthankara and on the left, Parsvanatha Tirthankara, and to the right.  The transition to a Hindu temple in 13^th century is visible by the presence of brahmanical sculptures during Pandya rulers.  A 360 degree view of the surrounding serene landscape with Tamiraparani  river like a silver ankle; breathtaking and leads you into pensive solitude. This ancient monument is protected by maintained by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India).

Late in the night, on our way to Kazhakoottam, rains followed us along the coastal bypass. Schools open the next day, a rain soaked morning. Chasing the monsoon, we headed to the central Kerala and further North.

Honeymoon in Honey Valley

 

 

 

 

Rains!! The clattering of rain drops on top of the mangalore tiled roof at my grandmother's home always urged me to get out and drench in the rains. So when I called up Suresh Chengappa asking for accommodation for two, he could not detriment my desire to trek in rains. Once I told him that I hail from Alleppey, he knew I am born and brought up in rains. When I was a baby, my grandmother used to give me bath and she never used to dry my head completely so that I develop immunity to get drenched in rains.


After shutting down the laptops and corporate life, I was home at 7pm on last Friday evening. Megha had packed all the bags and kept the essentials ready- Jyothi Laboratories' MAXO insect-repellent cream as active safety against blood-sucking leeches and turmeric powder as the passive safety once they bite you- are the top priority apart from the usual first aid kit. We also packed two John's umbrellas of 545mm width -imported from Kerala and light weight rain cuts from Decathlon. KSRTC runs volvo buses to Virajpet starting from Majestic at 11:30pm and the ticket costs Rs 400 per head. I was impressed by the fact that we can board any BMTC bus to Majestic free of cost if we are taking a KSRTC bus from there. Our bus started at 11:40pm and the route was Bangalore-Kengeri-Mysore-Gonikoppal-Virajpet. At 5.30am on Saturday morning, we were at Virajpet.

The sleepy town of Virajpet was just waking up to their daily chores sans a few newspaper vendors and auto rickshaws. We walked towards the Private Bus stand around 1.5km away. On the way, I picked up a Malayala Manorama and so excited to read it after a long time. Megha and I debated if Malayalam or Kannada has jilebi look alike script. We pit stopped enroute to have a tea at a 'chayakada' and I was cross-questioned by a police man on why I was taking his picture. I was not. I was taking the picture of the bus stand with the fog in the background. Once I showed him the picture, he was ok. The linguistic advantage in Kodagu region is that you can speak either Malayalam or Kannada. Mix up both and you speak something which is close to the local language.



The private bus 'Ganga' started at 6:50am after its morning ablutions -changing the tires and radiator check up. After 45min ride through the winding roads, we reached the destination -Kabbinakadu junction. Even if you are coming in you own vehicle, you need to park it at a nearby parking lot and board the 4-wheel drive jeep from Honey Valley estate, as the last 4km to the home stay is accessible by a 20 minute 4WD jeep ride or by walking for one hour. This ride was one of the bonus as Ganesh tackled the muddy and slippery jeep track by shifting through the 4WD gears. This reminded me of my trip from Chennai to Cochin towing a military jeep using another 4WD jeep through national highway.

Honey Valley is not a resort- it is run by Mr.Suresh Chengppa and his wife who settled here 28 years back. They have a sprawling coffee estate and you can stay in one of the rooms or huts catering to different budgets. Food is with a fixed vegetarian menu and if you are a carnivore, order in advance and those dishes will be served at your dining table.


Honey Valley has it's own hydro-electric turbine for electricity and bio-gas plant for cooking. Heating water for shower is done by solar and firewood. Many European backpackers come and enjoy the lush greenery and rains as Honey Valley is listed in Lonely Planet and other travel guides. Mr. Suresh is well-read and spoke Malayalam, Kannada, Hindi and English fluently. He has a vast collection of fiction and non-fiction books apart from National Geographic magazines. His calmness and grey hair spoke about his eventful past life and I was impressed at his 'been there done that' attitude. His son is currently travelling around the country and he called home from Kashmir two days back.


Route: Bangalore-Srirangapatna-Hunsur, Virajpet-Kabbinakad -235km; By bus: Bangalore-Virajpet (6hrs) Rs 500, Virajpet-Kabbinakau (45min) Rs 18.

Accommodation: The basic double rooms with shared toilets Rs 350, Double rooms with attached bathroom and geyser Rs 800, 4-bed room Rs 1200. Contact: 0822-238339, 200325, Email: honeyvalley_2000@yahoo.com, http://www.honeyvalleyindia.in/

After a sumptuous breakfast and piping hot coffee made out of freshly grounded coffee powder, we walked to a nearby waterfall taking directions from Mr. Suresh. A friendly dog was guiding us to the waterfall and you will hear other friendly dogs barking when you walk near the fenced boundaries of the coffee estates. After a relaxed 15min walk, we were at the bottom of a 25-feet waterfall with magnificent cascades hidden in the forest. It was not another crowded waterfall with drunk semi-nude men, but peaceful and calm where you can spend hours reflecting on life. We were back around lunch time and on the way back, I was attacked by 3 leeches. The insect-repellent was washed off my feet while walking in water. MAXO was very handy to get rid of the leech and applied turmeric powder at the bites to help blood clotting and as an antiseptic. After lunch, the rains gathered strength and we spent the afternoon gazing at the rains and listening to the clattering of heavy downpour on the Mangalore tiles.



In the evening, sipping hot coffee we discussed our plans to hike Mount Thadiyandamol (1745m) with Mr. Suresh. He was really happy gathering our interest in hiking and he gave me a booklet he had prepared with detailed map and directions for 18 hikes starting from Honey Valley ranging from 2 hours to full-day. We wrote down the whole route to Mt. Thadiyandamol but still I asked him for a guide if available. He was not sure of getting one the next morning, as the tribal people are not greedy and if they have the bread for the day, they did not care to work for tomorrow. Though it sounded very philosophical, I was convinced next day as our guide vanished after showing up in the morning.

After breakfast we started around 10am picking up a picnic bag with bread, cucumber, tomato, jam etc. We reached the "Dry Pond junction" which is the starting point to all the trails and this tiny pond was filled with rainwater. From this point, we had a little confusion about the path towards Mt. Thadiyandamol. Anyhow, we started hiking through the most tranquil and scenic path expecting that it would lead us to the peak. Listening to the numerous crickets and frogs, we walked for almost two hours. Crossed multiple streams skirting the mountain on our left side and making our path through the dense forest and thickets of wild hibiscus. After a while, we could not find any obvious path but could see Thadiyandamol peak and walked towards that by wading through knee length grass and bruising our legs and shoulders against the thorny bushes. It was really adventurous to walk through a path that was not listed in the booklet of 18 trails and both of us were thrilled at the 'Man Vs Wild' episode in our honeymoon trek. Whenever I was confused with my instincts I asked Megha to take the lead.

Suddenly Megha stopped and cried out as something bit her, I was horrified if that is a slither. She pulled out an insect from the ankle in a frantic reflex which looked like a leech but was different in texture and size. Blood started flowing without any indications of clotting. I pulled out the antiseptic wipes and cleared the tiny wound and applied turmeric powder. It did not show any relief and there was a sign of poking pain on her face. Iodine ointment was my next remedy, though in vain. Using a band-aid I tried to cover the wound and we decided to get back. As I write this after 5 days, still a tiny swelling is visible and it is paining slightly. Anyhow, we could not find a viable route to go further and it was just enough time to get back for lunch at Honey Valley. Definitely it was more fun to be in a off-beaten trail than going in a routine trail with a crowd polluting the trails with plastic garbage.

Mr. Suresh was surprised that we lost our way and returned. But he was encouraging and exclaimed 'it is not about the destination; it is the hike that is thrilling'. During lunch, we met a few French travelers and discussed about Catacombs under Paris and Decathlon products at length. Post lunch, we moved to a double room with a common toilet and the verandah was occupied by two ladies - one from Spain and the other from Russia. More backpackers were present in this building and one guy from Delhi was visiting this part of the country to study about frogs as part of his research. Enjoying the rains and a few cups of coffee, we spent our evening. By 7.30pm Mr.Suresh dropped us back to Kabbinakkadu junction. The last bus from Madikeri to Virajpet arrived at 8.20pm and we were at Virajpet by 9.15pm. Our Bangalore Airavat bus was at 10:45 and after dinner, we waited at the bus station. After a short sleep of 5 hours, we were at Majestic bus station at 4.00am. Back to concrete jungle and the only noise is that of harsh horns and screeching brakes not crickets and frogs. If you love rains and lush greenery, Honey Valley estate is the place to head to on any weekend.

“Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it.”

A weekend in Alappuzha

Alappuzha (Alleppey) is known as Venice of the East, with its planned canals - the doorway to the famous backwaters. What can be done in Alappuzha over a weekend? Here are a few things I can think of in this well-planned town, a tribute to Raja Kesavadasan's visionary architecture. The most common touristy attraction is the houseboat cruise. You check in to a larger than average apartment sized houseboat and stay for 23hours. Typically you can check-in on Saturday morning 10 am and check-out by Sunday morning 9 am. While you enjoy your lunch, evening tea, dinner and Sunday morning breakfast, don't forget to carry a book or movie DVD. The houseboats start from 'Finishing Point' named after the legendary Nehru Trophy Boat Race. Finishing Point is 10min walk from the Alappuzha KSRTC bus stand, you need to take a newly-built bridge across the canals or Rs 20 by auto-rickshaw. If you are reaching by a train, you can hire an auto-rickshaw to Finishing Point by paying Rs 40 from the train station, 4km southwest of the town center.

There are more than 1000 houseboats in the 900km network of backwaters across the farmlands in Alappuzha and neighboring districts of Kottayam and Kollam. Long before the network of the roads were built, these canals were the main transport channels and even today some of the far inlands are connected by KSRTC boats than buses. The houseboats are the biggest tourist business in Alappuzha post the former prime minister A.B Vajpayee's famous vacation in Kerala. There are differently sized houseboats suitable for any number of people- up to seven bedroom boats are available. When you reach Alappuzha town, you will be surrounded by many travel-agency reps offering houseboat trips. Contrary to the popular belief, it is not possible to travel by houseboat between Alappuzha and Kollam or Alappuzha and Kochi. The quality of the food and infrastructure varies broadly- from old sinking vessels to palatial ships. It is strongly recommended to check your boat before agreeing for a price, make sure the toilet taps and air-conditioner are working fine.

 

 

 

For a couple, one bed room house boat will cost approx Rs 4500 to Rs 7000 for 23hours. The houseboats will be parked by 5pm in the evening next to the farmlands fringed by coconut trees in the far interior backwaters and coming out of the houseboat and going to the town or beach is not practical. If you want to reduce the cost, but experience the houseboat there is an alternative package. You can check- in the night around 8pm and stay overnight in the boat until 9am. This will cost Rs 3000 for two -dinner and breakfast are included. There will be two staff on board- a driver and a chef to cook the food of your choice. Don't forget to let them know your choice of food before hand, as they need to store the food in advance. You will cough up approx Rs 9000 for a two-bedroom houseboat and Rs 11000 for a three-bedroom. Note that this rate will escalate during the peak season -especially during Onam and Nehru Trophy boat race- Aug 2nd week of every year. Book your tickets through KSTDC for a pavillion seat away from the local crowds if you are planning to watch this mega event with thousands of cheering spectators. Carry food,drink and an umbrella as you have to stay there from 10am to 5pm.

Call Sabu (Cell 9446005514) of Goodwill tours for houseboat booking. His experience travelling all around India while he was in army will help to cater the guests' needs-familiar with food choices and conversant in Hindi, Tamil, Malayalam and English.

Once the boat is parked, you can swim in the backwaters or fish using a bamboo pole and a string machine. Set on foot to visit the nearby villages to watch farming, boat building, coir making, toddy (palm beer) tapping and fishing which makes the backwaters so exquisite. Kuttanadu -the region with the lowest altitude in India, and one of the few places in the world where farming is done below sea level- 300ft below MSL. Kainakary, 10km from Alappuzha by road and 45min by boat is a nice place to see the real Kuttanadu life. You may be lucky to see chundan vallam (snake boat) or canoe construction. If you are adventurous with food, try fizzy toddy and KFC(Kappa Fish Curry) from the local toddy shop. Not everyone's taste buds will tolerate the hot and spicy fish curry or 'kappa' (tapioca) at the toddy shop (Rs 60 for a bottle of toddy and Rs 50-100 for dishes). Ask for 'kallu shaap' if you would like to go on this trails. Consider staying awake in the night for a while gazing the galaxy of stars or waking up at 6am to catch a glimpse of the sunrise reflecting in the huge lake.

If you are on a frugal budget or if you think houseboats are too cheesy, there are some alternatives to watch the backwaters at a cheaper cost. Take a public KSRTC boat from the boat jetty next to KSRTC bus station. The boat jetty is hiding inside the Mangalore-tiled ferry opposite to a swanky jewellery shop on the main road to KSRTC bus station. Hop on to any boat that goes to Nedumudi, Kavalam, Champakulam and you are assured a good experience of backwaters at the cost of Rs 10 for more than 2 or 3 hours. Another option is a long 3hour trip to Kottayam crossing Vembanad Lake and coming back by either boat or bus.

Near bus station along the canals, rented canoe boats are available for a non-guided laze through the canals on a small, covered canoe for up to four people for two hours (Rs 600-1000) - this is another way to run through your Sunday tranquil afternoon before boarding the bus or train. I strongly recommend wearing a life-jacket on these canoes as they can topple easily when unfamiliar feet try to balance. Knowing swimming is not essential but is an added advantage.

If you are not staying in the houseboat, consider staying at a home stay near the beach for an early morning beach experience. Alleppey Beach Holidays Home stay (d Rs 750, with AC Rs 1000), Near Collector's Bungalow, Sea View Ward is an excellent option. Call Jose (0477-2241649, Mob: 9447103852) and book your rooms. From this home stay, walk for 5min passing the railway level cross, you are welcomed by the white sanded beach of Alappuzha and get close to the erstwhile sea bridge ruins and the lighthouse. This sea bridge was used for transportation of food supplies from the vessels to the FCI (Food Corporation of India) warehouse and you will find the remains of the rails along the bridge. Checkout if the boating in the lake near the beach is functional and lay your hands on a paddle boat or a rowing boat. Visit Sree Krishna Ayurveda (0477-329728; http://www.krishnayurveda.com/), near Finishing Point, unwind taking one-hour rejuvenation massage for Rs 600.

Train/Bus to Alappuzha: Taking a train or bus directly to Alappuzha is the easiest way to reach there. If not available, take a train or bus to Ernakulam and board a KSRTC bus from bus station to Alappuzha which will take less than two hours. There will be plenty of buses at the bus station heading south on the NH 47. Waiting for a train to Alappuzha from Ernakulam railway station is not recommended. An auto from Ernakulam railway station to bus station will cost you Rs 20.

Environmental issues - pollution from the houseboat motors and biological waste tfrom houseboat toilets hreaten the backwaters and the community life on their banks. Kerala govt. is enforcing a 'Green Palm Certification' for installing solar panels and sanitary tanks for the disposal of waste. If you are eco-conscious, please try to use the manually sculled boats or public boats to visit the backwaters instead of motorized boats.