The twists and turns of Malnad

 

A change in weather was much welcome after the balmy, humid time spent at the coast. The yearning to traverse the twists and turns of Charmady was quite strong. Instead of the straight route via Kudremukha – Kalasa and to Mudigere, the chosen path to reach our amiable home-stay was Karkala - Bajagoly - Ujjire - Charmady Ghat - Kottigehara - Mudigere - Belur road - KR Pete - Smarika Farms, covering 160 kilometres.

 

This mountain road comes alive in Monsoon with water cascading at the roadside flowing as scintillating waterfalls. By December, only a few of them survived to charm us. The incredible landscape, from vantage points, compelled us to stop, despite the boards announcing not to take photographs or selfies. The ascent to the Western Ghats begins after crossing the bustling traffic of Ujjire.  Omelette from a non-descript restaurant right after the town perked up our energy levels for the road ahead.  MalnadCafé is a customary stop when in the area. Based in Banakal, 5km after Kottigehara towards Belur, they serve scrumptious akki rotti with fresh filter coffee. The cordial owner Chandan is warm and welcoming. They are expanding the venture, and construction for a homestay is underway. Feeling at home in this part of Western Ghats – maybe because we lived in Kudremukha for 6 months, we were thrilled to be back in the familiar territory. 

 

Smarika Farms, located amidst the coffee and pepper plantation, is a short 5-minute drive from the settlement of KR Pete. The place offers various accommodation facilities targeted at both larger and smaller groups. The skilled chef who hails from a nearby locale prepares delicious meals. The kind owner Sanjay is passionate about hospitality. One of the treasured routes is Chikmagalur – Aldur – Koppa, where a family-run Harsha Café dishes out unrivalled Neer Dose. Another obligatory pit stop we never miss when in Chikmagalur.

 

Moving on, we settled on the route suggested by the locals to Mutthodi. Covering 150 kilometres, the day’s ride was: Smarika Farms - Aldur - Magodu – Kanathi Lake - Mallandur - Muthodi Nature Camp - Mallandur - Chikamagalur - KR Pete - Smarika Farms. The unceasing steep path lead us to a serene spot, abundant with greenery, and the reflection of which was seen in the tranquil water of the lake. Time stood still while we basked in the placidness of nature. When we joined the main Mallandur road, the dizzying twists and turns gave way to wider roads.  Certain spots in the last few kilometres of the route inside the forest are narrow and miserable. You will emerge at a junction that takes you to Dattapeetha once you cross the nature reserve.

 

After a restful night and interesting conversations with Sanjay, we bid adieu to Smarika Farms. Covering a distance of 2000 kilometres, the momentous road trip ended with our return to Namma Bengaluru. 

Maiden Monsoon Ride

Riding bike in the Western Ghats has been on my bucket list for long. Now that I have learnt riding a geared motorcycle it was beyond thrilling sensation when I rode our Duke in the Western Ghats.

On a fine Friday evening, with mild drizzle in Bangalore, we set out towards Hassan - our first stop - en route Kalasa. Patches of rain kept the road and our mind fresh. Following morning, heavy rain accompanied us all the way to Kalasa. It was after a very long time we experienced the saying "it's raining cats and dogs". Our riding gear kept us warm and thanks to Decathlon rain gear we were dry.

Roads in Chickmagalur district are in their best condition ever. The age old, potholed, broken roads gave way to fully  tarred smooth tarmac. The lush green scenery can be enjoyed instead of gluing your eyes on the road. With the heavy rains there are streams at every corner and fallen trees are very common.

Our route was Bangalore-Nelamangala-Channarayapatna-Hassan-Belur(Left turn)-Jannapura-Mudigere-Kottigehara(Right)-Balur(Left)-Kelagur-Hirebyle-Kalasa. 340km in total.

On day 2, we were riding through Kudremukha NP, to erstwhile  KIOCL township in torrential rains. A detour from Samse will take you towards Elaneeru Waterfalls.

And Day 3,  Kalasa-Balehole-Magundi route. There is a diversion on this route to Agumbe/Sringeri - which is still a potholed road. From Magundi, the road leads to Balur - alternate route to reach Kottigehara from Kalasa. There is  also a shorter route Haluvalli- Horanadu road to reach Horanadu Temple.

Instead of coming back through the same route to Hassan, we turned right at Jannapura towards Sakleshpura. This road is fantastic - both the tarmac and lush green scenery.  After Sakleshpura, the roads are in pretty bad condition until Hassan. Road widening work is in progress from Hassan to Sakleshpura.

So, our return route was Kalasa-Kelagur-Balur-Kottigehara-Jannapura-Sakleshpura-Hassan-Bangalore. 350km -7hrs of leisure riding.

Due to heavy construction at Shiradi ghats on Bangalore-Mangalore national highway, there is a detour through Belur- Mudigere-Kottigehara-Charmadi. So, there was heavy traffic on this route until Kottigehara.

Quick facts:

Location: Kalasa is 340km from Bangalore and Kudremukha is 20km from Kalasa.  Horanadu, Sringeri, Agumbe can be reached from here.

When to visit: October to March is the best time. During monsoon, life becomes different at Kalasa. If you love rains, that is the best time.

Where to stay: Thottadur Yatri Nivas (at Kalasa) is for the budget traveller. Central, clean and basic. Rs 750 for dbl. Tel: 08263274699

What to carry: Some winter wear and trekking gear. A torch and umbrella will be handy. Always be ready with change of clothes. Waterfalls are tempting.

Food:  There are a few places for food  on Belur-Kottigehara route. Malnad Café dishes up authentic Malnad food with pipping hot coffee. At Kalasa, you will find basic meals at the restaurant next to Yatri Nivas.

  

Precautions: Salt, tobacco, Odomos etc for preventing leeches. Turmeric powder or turmeric oil to stop bleeding and itching if you are bitten by a leech.

Cash/ATM: Please carry liquid cash on this route, there was no power at Kalasa for 4days. Expect ATMs not to work and petrol pumps might need cash payment.