Fort Kochi to Vagamon - motorcycle trip

(C) Surabhi Rajan

 

 

Gokul was fantasizing about riding a Royal Enfield for a long time. Amer added momentum to plan this trip from Kochi with caferides.com. But working hours and terms and conditions of caferides.com did not match our requirements. Gokul did a bit more research and found out Arafath Bike Rental (Mob: 9947478328,  9995784000), Princess Street, Fort Kochi. RE Bullet 500, Bajaj Avenger and Yamaha FZ150- we completed the formalities and got the bikes one day earlier. FZ150 needed a bit of service. Surabhi sponsored his brother-in-law's RE Classic 500. And that was it!



(C) Surabhi Rajan



All of us started riding on a fine Saturday morning towards East from Alleppey via picturesque Changanassery road. After a few pit-stops, we were at Mundakkayam for breakfast. A brief stop at Panchalimedu was enthralling to watch the panoramic view of “high-range” of Kerala. Local shop owner Shanthamma gave us hot black coffee and salted mangoes to go with her stories of migration to the hills for farming. The locals still get water from the streams and we ventured into the dense forest to have a look at their infrastructure to siphon the water down to their homes. Shanthamma's family hails from coastal regions of Kerala, her husband was lured by farming opportunities while working at Sabarimala as a guard. There is a route to Sabarimala which is not motorable from Panchalimedu. Further, the roads were excellent for cornering and we reached Vagamon by 2pm. Misty clouds and a light drizzle satiated our wanderlust.



(C) Surabhi Rajan



After lunch, we decided to find a shelter and Amer had a good recommendation to stretch our back at KMK Resort at Kottupara. Call manager Ravi (Mob: 9495927417, Tel: 04869 248222) for rooms (dbl Rs 1500). It was a serendipitous finding that 30min ride from this resort will take you to a forest near Uluppunni. We walked along the stream into the forest but couldn’t go too far as it was getting dark. Make sure you return before dark, or you may get lost in the jungle. There are many routes in the vicinity, tempting the off-roading enthusiasts.



(C) Surabhi Rajan



Next morning, we decided to take the shorter route to Kochi via Eratuppetta-Kottayam-Thanneermukkom-Cherthala. We had a bit of adventure on the way climbing a steep hill 20km from Vagamon town. Bumpy ride until Erattupetta and further the tarmac is really good. By evening 4pm, we were at Fort Kochi. Sipping Kahwah tea at Loafers’ Café near  Tourist Information Center on Princess Road, we were contemplating next motorcycle trip.

 

 

 

Vagamon - Laurie Baker's home

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 Did you know Laurie Baker lived at Vagamon before he moved to Thiruvananthapuram circa 1960? Well, it was a serendipity for us when we reached Asha Sadan at Kurisumala.

After the novelty of monsoon showers, it was not a very good idea to ride a motorcycle to Vagamon from Cherthala. There is a shorter route from Cherthala via Vechoor-Edayazham-Kallara-Kuruppunthara-Kuravilangad-Pala-Erattupetta to Vagamon taking around four hours  covering 100km by an old Yamaha RX100. Change gears after Erattupetta for winding, steep, war field like roads. The roads are preparing for a  complete 4lane conversion and many blasts tore open the mountains. Few sections of the road reminded us of the roads in Arunachal Pradesh.

Deluge of the monsoon season berained the valleys and mountains. At 982m altitude the three hills -  Thangalmala, Muruganmala and Kurishumala at Vagamon were wet and cold requiring some warm clothes. There are frequent KSRTC buses from Kottayam and Pala. A few private buses go to Kumily via Vagamon-Elappara. The old house of eco friendly master architect Laurie Baker was bought by a nature lover and he developed Asha Sadan (Tel: 98479914519, 8281723268, dbl Rs.800, www.econestashasadan.com), simple vegetarian meals are not overpriced and very tasty. You can choose from basic rooms, cottages and dormitory. Sagar, the manager claimed upto 250 people have stayed at once there including many Malayalam movie stars.  Strolling around a lovely campus of Asha Sadan watching the lush green slopes filled with a thick blanket of fog is sheer bliss. Kurishumala Ashramam is a short walk away.




Four kilometre away from Kurishumala, at the town centre restaurants and lodges greet the tourist. Love Land Home (Tel: 9961017379, dbl Rs.700) is run by Seban and his brother Joji offering rooms and cottages. They can arrange home cooked food. Their mother Mary Kutty runs a restaurant at central junction, Kurishumala.

Vagamon is frequented by college students and youngsters looking for a cool location to consume hot booze. Film making crew and honeymoon couples throng the meadows and tea estates for shooting. Pine Valley, Thangal Para, Kurishumala Ashramam, Kolahalamedu, Suicide Point and cattle unit are the places of interest for 'sight-seeing' tourist. 

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Travellers can take a ride to Elappara (15km, 1hr) or Elaveezhupoonchira (22km, 2hr) to soak in the complete experience of the Western ghats. We got soaked in the morning, literally, after a ride to Elappara through the bad roads among the hills shrouded in the mist. Elappara is a medium sized town with petrol pump and ATM thriving on tea estate economy. Two roads in opposite direction take you to Kuttikanam and Kattapana from here. If you are driving from Munnar to Thekkady stopping at Vagamon is a good option. Less touristy and more misty.

The traveler is active; he goes strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him. He goes 'sight-seeing'. - Daniel Boorstin